Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Italian Baba Ghanouj with Balsamic Reduction and Stewed Figs


Or is it baba ghanoug or baba ganush....to my knowledge, there isn't a "right" translation and spelling from Arabic to English and it is often spelled differently everywhere you look. This popular, tangy eggplant dip grew in popularity in the U.S. mostly in the last ten years or so. I think of it as hummus's lesser known sibling. The hummus boom made the garbanzo bean version of this dip wildly popular and I have to wonder, why not eggplant? What made hummus so much more common? The plethora of hummus flavors out there is overwhelming. There is everything from roasted pepper or olive hummus to Buffalo-style hummus and pesto hummus. I have even seen edamame hummus. While these are exciting alternatives to the standard, I see no reason to limit myself to all beans. I love a good batch of baba ghanouj (my preferred spelling) with it's vague smokiness from the roasting, creaminess from the tahini, and bit of acidity on the tongue. I wonder, why can't we change a few seasonings and make flavored baba ghanouj the way some hummus companies and kitchens make flavored hummus?

Traditional baba ghanouj is made with a roasted eggplant (roasted over a flame, if possible, to achieve that smokiness), tahini, lemon juice, and olive oil. To be really traditional, you could add a wee bit of pomegranate molasses, found in Middle Eastern stores, and I love adding toasted cumin seeds and some sweet paprika. That is the classic version--not too far off from what is added to garbanzo beans for traditional hummus.

Versatile ingredients all ready to go!
For my eggplant dip to rival hummus, I am going to roast a medium eggplant with some garlic cloves, add fresh oregano, olive oil, and balsamic reduction drizzled on top in lieu of the pomegranate molasses.  Rather than a taste of the Middle East, we are off to Italy for this one. This is great served with sliced Italian bread, focaccia, or pita. I may even try to scrounge up some dried figs, stew them to soften them and garnish the top with wintery sweetness.

Italian Baba Ghanouj with Balsamic Reduction and Stewed Figs

1 medium eggplant
6-8 cloves garlic, with skins on
2 T extra-virgin olive oil+ 4 T
1/3 c +2 T inexpensive, everyday balsamic vinegar
8 dried figs
2 t freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 t chopped fresh oregano, or 1/4 t dried
1/2 t sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

crusty bread, focaccia, or flatbread for serving


Preheat to oven to 350 degrees. Wash the eggplant and coat gently with a tablespoon of olive oil. Place on a large piece of foil that is laid across a baking sheet. Rub cloves of garlic with another tablespoon of oil. Nestle them near the eggplant in the center of the foil and wrap them loosely.

Roast for about 40 minutes, checking after about 25 minutes to check the garlic cloves. If they are very soft before the eggplant, pull them out and let them cool. When eggplant is done roasting, open the foil and also let it cool.

In a small saucepan, cook the balsamic vinegar over medium heat to reduce by 1/2. It is done when it is thick and syrupy. You can go a little over and reduce more, but don't reduce less. Transfer to a bowl.

Without washing the pot, add about 1/2 c water, 2 T balsamic vinegar, and the dried figs. Simmer until figs are very tender and water/balsamic mixture is just about evaporated. Let cool, then quarter the figs.

When eggplant is cooled, slice open and scrape out the insides into a mixing bowl. Mash with lemon juice, oregano, salt, pepper, and olive oil to taste. Add about half of the balsamic reduction and taste, adding and adjusting salt and lemon, as well.

Pour into a low flat bowl to serve. Garnish the top with olive oil, balsamic reduction, and quartered figs. Serve room temperature with warm bread.

Monday, November 28, 2011

Curried Sweet Potato and Coconut Chowder


Fusion cuisine is something I think about doing often and decide against almost as often, depending on who will be eating the food. Fusing together different cuisines and techniques isn't something everyone loves and definitely requires an open mind and a sense of adventure. For some eaters, it is downright confusing if they are not versed in the inspiration for the new-fangled dish. On the other hand, I love trying favorite ethnic seasonings in unexpected concoctions and some cuisines were just meant to go together, such as French and Moroccan or Peruvian and Chinese. Fusing cuisines and getting super experimental isn't for the beginning cook, but trying it can give a beginner or novice some insight into the creative process used by cooking professionals. Everyone's cooking technique can benefit by pondering what makes nouveau, nouvelle, or fusion foods good.

I love exotic flavors and preparations, but also appreciate classic, reliable American flavors and forms.  When I'm thinking of fusing two techniques or cuisines together, sometimes I consider and reconsider, should I use the technique of recipe A and the seasonings of cuisine B or vice versa or somewhere in between? After much trial and error, I usually find that keeping the technique of the title  (such as chowder, chili, turnover, wrap, etc) is the best way to ground the dish and keep it true to it's name and your intention. Then comes the switching out of seasonings and ingredients to "fuse" an unexpected flavor, cuisine, or dish into the other. Sometimes you are just dying to use an ingredient scavenged from the greenmarket or you are just trying to use up something in the fridge in a creative way before it goes bad. Either way, developing a complete idea around the ingredient is the best way to ensure that things will come out great without going too far "out there" making the food unrecognizable. Using this theory can keep the novice cook from going completely astray and give the experienced cook or chef a clear sense of direction and, so makes the process more enjoyable. Sounds calculated for such a creative concept, doesn't it? It's not. These are just some general observations and rules of thumb to get thinking about creative cooking technique.

There is lots of room for variation in so-called "fusion cuisine". Here my appreciation for all-American chowder  is amped up with my obsession with sweet potatoes and Indian seasonings.  Coconut milk replaces milk and cream. Instead of celery and thyme as dominant seasonings, I used chaat masala, whole mustard and cumin seeds, and ginger.  Minced cilantro replaces parsley. Finish with a little lemon (or lime!).  As this simmered on my stove, I realized it was begging for some seafood (curry, coconut, fish..Yea!) and I had some leftover poached wild salmon hanging around, so in it went! This would be great with protein additions such as fish or shellfish, tofu, red beans, or any other thing you think should be tossed in. My fish was cooked so I added it at the end. For raw fish or meat, add it when you add the sweet potatoes and peppers. The result is technically a chowder, but with pungeant, spicy, and deep flavors of South Indian cuisine. Warm some of this up and enjoy with naan, paratha, rotis, or chapatis and maybe some green chutney and yogurt.

Gather your mise before you begin!

Curried Sweet Potato and Coconut Chowder

9-grain paratha from my Indian market
4 T virgin coconut oil (yes, it is good for you:)
1 t black mustard seeds
1 t whole cumin seeds
1-2 T chaat masala (or substitute garam masala or Sambar)
1 t paprika (I use hot, sweet is okay)
1 t ground turmeric
2 t minced fresh ginger
2 T minced fresh garlic

1 medium onion, diced
2 lb sweet potatoes (Jewel or Garnet yams), peeled and diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
2 lg carrots, sliced into 1/2" rounds
2 t sea salt
1/2-1 t honey (opt.)
2 cans coconut milk (or 1 can coconut milk, 1 can water for a light consistency)


In the bottom of a soup pot, melt down coconut oil and add mustard seeds and cumin seeds. Cook for one minute before adding remaining spices, ginger, and garlic. Stir and cook 3-4 minutes over medium until spices are fragrant.

Add diced onion and cook for another 2-3 minutes, stirring until onion begins to soften. Add sweet potatoes, pepper, and carrots and season with sea salt. Add honey and coconut milk (and water, if using) and stir to incorporate. Turn heat up and bring to almost a boil. Lower heat right away and let simmer for about 25 minutes, uncovered. Stir occasionally and check for tenderness.

When carrots and sweet potatoes are very tender, taste for seasoning and spiciness and adjust. Add about a cup of chopped cilantro and a healthy squirt of lemon juice. Serve immediately or let cool and reheat for later.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Baked Autumn Cassoulet

Voila! Autumn Cassoulet!
A cassoulet is a typical French stew traditionally made with sausage, flageolet beans, and bouquet garni. It is delicious, hearty and warming, but not always accessible. Flageolet beans can be hard to find and some people don't go for greasy sausage or sausage at all. I have a favorite vegan version of a cassoulet where I have replaced the butter with olive oil added veggies, and tried to duplicate the sausage's essence without actually adding sausage (or sometimes worse,  vegetarian soy sausage). As with most vegetarian versions of things, I usually try to modify seasoning and texture of a dish to come close to it's meaty counterpart without adding the processed stuff. I'm not ripping up all veggie meats. Some are healthy and tasty and definitely have their time and place. For something with so many great ingredients, though, there really is no reason to use it here.

In garden season, I like to take these really simple ingredients and stew them together slowly all afternoon. Then I pop them in the oven about 30 minutes before dinner and have a great French (inspired) meal. Since it is no longer the season for these veggies to be at their peak, but the winter squashes are pouring in all over, I thought I would incorporate a diced butternut squash into the mix and modify the seasonings a teeny tiny bit to give my autumn cassoulet a hint of spice to showcase the squash. If you think you will miss having sausage in it, add some chicken and apple sausage with chardonnay or some such thing. . .I have used the one just mentioned, but can't remember the brand. Aidell's? Al Fresco? Find a sweet and sage-y autumnal variety, brown it, slice it, and pop it in to stew.

Cook it all slowly till the flavors come together.


Autumn Cassoulet

1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup diced shallots
1 cup sliced celery with tops
1 t finely minced garlic
1 cup diced green pepper
1 small butternut squash, peeled and diced (about 2 1/2 cups)
2 bay leaves
1/2 t dried sage
1/2 t dried thyme
1/2 t dried rosemary
1/4 t ground nutmeg
1/4 t smoked paprika
1/4-1/2 t sea salt
2 cups diced tomatoes
1 can crushed tomatoes
3 cups cooked flageolet beans or navy beans (or approx 2 cans, rinsed)


Warm oil in a cassoulet pan (or medium pot). Add shallots, celery, garlic, pepper, and squash. Cook over medium until everything begins to get fragrant. If you are using sausage, slice it up and throw it in now and let it brown before you continue.

Add herbs, spices (omit smoked paprika if using sausage),  sea salt, and pepper. Cook 3-4 minutes, then add fresh and canned tomatoes. Stir to incorporate everything and add drained beans. Stir again and bring the heat up to a rapid simmer/almost a boil to get it hot, then lower to medium-low and set it on the back burner for an hour or so. If you would like to let it go longer, check it for liquid and add a little water or stock (you should maybe do this anyway so it doesn't dry out. Preheat the oven to 350F.

Taste for seasoning after you are happy with it and pop it in the oven for 20-30 minutes. This part is optional, but I think it really adds something to the finished product.

Serve as an entree with crusty baguette or as a veggie side.**

**a great potluck dish!
**freezes well

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Cranberry Apple Pecan French Toast


Saute the apples
It was a little brisk out there this morning. I don't know why, but tasty aromas just smell different with a dip in air temperature.  Leaving yoga class this morning, I was overwhelmed by the need for some autumn flavors in my brunch. Inhaling the sweet and savory breakfast smells wafting from apartment windows and restaurants, I headed to my nearest market to pick up a few things to throw together. This time of year is so easy to convert classic dishes to a seasonal treat. With apples, pumpkins, cranberries, figs, pecans, concord grapes, walnuts, and spices a typical menu can make something basic into something really special.



Cook 3-4 minutes on each side
Today I decided to go with some French toast. Sometimes I use whole wheat challah, sliced thickly, for my French toast. Today, though, I was drawn to the 9-grain sliced loaf from The Baker. Adding some apple butter to the egg mix and doing a quick sauteed topping makes this classic breakfast a perfect cool weekend treat. I considered going with a pumpkin theme by using pureed pumpkin and spices with the egg mix, so if you are a pumpkin lover, that is a great variation to try. Use organic pastured butter to get your omega 3's!


Cranberry Apple Pecan French Toast

1 sliced Golden Delicous apple (with skin on, if organic)
2 T +1 T+ 3T organic unsalted butter, pastured if available
pinch of sea salt
dash of ground cinnamon
1/2 cup roughly chopped pecans
1/2 cup dried cranberries
another dash of sea salt and cinnamon
1 tsp or so of honey

3 large eggs
1/2-2/3 cup oat milk, rice milk, or other preferred milk (I used sunflower seed milk)
2 dashes of ground cinnamon
1/2 cup apple butter
10 slices whole grain bread

real maple syrup for serving


In a saute pan, cook the sliced apple with 2 T butter, dash of salt, and dash of cinnamon over low heat for 15 minutes or so or until apples are nice and tender and beginning to caramelize. Transfer to a bowl and cover to keep warm.

Melt another tablespoon butter in the pan and cook pecans and dried cranberries over medium-low heat with a pinch of cinnamon and a dash of sea salt for about 10 minutes, stirring often until fragrant and pecans are just toasted. Finish with honey, stir honey in, and transfer to bowl with apples. Mix nuts and fruit together and cover.

Wash and dry the pan. and Melt some butter over low. In a mixing bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, cinnamon, and apple butter. Raise heat in the pan to medium. Dip bread into egg mixture two slices at a time (or more if your pan is big), and cook for about 3-4 minutes per side.

Transfer to a warming plate and continue with remaining bread OR serve immediately by topping with apple cranberry pecan mixture and drizzling with real maple syrup. Enjoy with a hot cup of coffee or tea.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Moroccan Lentil Vegetable Soup

Soup in progress!
As usual, I am reluctant to say goodbye to summer, but the darker skies and rain isn't always such a bad thing. After an exciting and very eventful summer and so far a ridiculously busy fall, a few days of rain and accepting that I've caught a cold is a great excuse to stay in and make soup.

Sprouted wheat with raisins, a perfect pairing
I bought the vegetables, broth, and tomato paste yesterday with the intention of making a classic American soup to soothe my sore throat, steam this cold out, and get some veggies down, especially since I'm eating for two now. I haven't been able to stomach any greens all week as this bug slowly started settling in. As I began to chop ingredients and toss them in the pot, I realized I wanted something with some flavor! I'm quite sure a Moroccan lentil vegetable soup in Morocco is nothing like this, but the spices are about right.  Despite my un-Moroccan combo of mirepoix, summer squash, and collards, this soup has a tangy, spicy Moroccan feel and and can fix up a boring soup recipe. If I had some winter squash, it would have gone into the pot in a heartbeat. Whole Foods had a gorgeous loaf of savory sprouted wheat bread that was woven with raisins and absolutely superb warmed up and served alongside this soup.

Enjoy a pungeant and flavorful pot of soup to welcome the first weekend of fall. This one is for the least adventurous to the most adventurous eaters. If you just aren't sure if Moroccan spices are your thing, then go light on them and keep the seasoning subtle. If you are feeling adventurous, go generous with the spices and cayenne. Welcome back, fall!

Typical spices combined for an exotic flavor blend!

Moroccan Lentil Vegetable Soup

3 T extra-virgin olive oil
3 T ghee (or more olive oil)

1 t ground turmeric
1 t ground cinnamon
1 t ground cumin
1/2-1 t cayenne pepper (or more)

1 t freshly grated ginger root
3 t freshly grated garlic cloves
2 medium onions, diced
4 stalks of celery, thinly sliced
4 medium carrots, thinly sliced
1 medium zucchini, sliced into 1/2 moons
1 medium yellow squash, sliced into 1/2 moons
6 crimini mushrooms, sliced
1 green bell pepper, diced
1 1/2 cups dried brown lentils, rinsed and sorted
vegetable broth or water or a little of both
1  6 oz can tomato paste
1 small bunch collard greens, roughly shredded
juice of 1 large lemon
2 t sea salt, or to taste
freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil and ghee in a large soup pot over medium heat add spices, ginger, and garlic and cook for one minute, stirring and releasing their fragrance. Add onion, celery, carrot, zucchini, squash, mushrooms, bell pepper, and any other veggies you feel like throwing in (Save leafy veggies for the end.).Add 1 1/2 cups brown lentils

Stir and cook for about 10 minutes and coating them in the seasoned oil. Add vegetable and/or water to cover by 2 inches. I typically use a 32 oz. Tetrapak, then add water to cover, if needed. Add tomato paste and season with a little salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer partially covered for 30 minutes or so, until veggies and lentils are tender and seasonings have married. Add shredded collard greens, or other leafy green and cook on low for 5-8 more minutes until wilted and incorporated.

Finish generously with lemon juice, sea salt, and pepper. I'm insane and like to put plain organic whole milk yogurt on everything and this soup is no exception. If you are craving a cooling garnish, it is awesome!

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Mediterranean Bruschetta with Fava Bean Puree


If you are lucky enough to have a market that carries fresh fava beans in season, then be sure to pick some up when you see them. They are typically found fresh in June in the northeast, but are now available in cans and jars. There are even cooked favas in water in a vacuum seal pack at Whole Foods in the produce section so, while fresh is best, your fava season can be extended if you love them as much as I do. Fava beans have an earthy, green flavor that hold their own as an hors d'eouvre or are often seen sauteed and as an accompaniment to fish or chicken. They are fresh, bright green, and addictive.

Drain and rinse.
I bought a huge batch this spring and shelled, peeled (the tender, beany outer skins), blanched, and froze a bunch to extend my fava season. Unlike canned, jarred, or dried, they kept their perky green color and taste so fresh I thought they should be showcased on a baguette. Served with zucchini pancakes and roasted tomato sauce, this is a fantastic late-summer vegetarian/flexitarian meal or it's perfect as an appetizer.


Mediterranean Bruschetta with Fava Bean Puree

3-5 large cloves garlic, unpeeled
Cool roasted garlic before peeling.
extra-virgin olive oil (about 1/4 cup total)
1 1/2 cups cooked fava beans

Friday, July 29, 2011

Summer Vegetable Lasagna

Spelt lasagna noodles and roasted tomatoes ready to go!

Wondering what to do with a bumper crop of zucchini and tomatoes? Try this improvised version of a classic favorite. I am using whole spelt noodles (from VitaSpelt) to keep it really healthy and nutritious. Thinly slice the veggies you have, broil them, and layer them with the cooked pasta and whole cheese from pastured cows.  Rather than sticking to just my suggestions, use any summer vegetables that tempt you--  artichokes, spinach, chard (the leafy stuff you can saute, not roast, of course), carrots, parsnips, onions, whatever is in season and abundant near you will go just fine.

Instead of a heavy, slow-cooked tomato sauce,  roasted Roma tomatoes will keep this lasagna summery and fresh. For cheese, a classic combo of ricotta and mozzarella is always welcome, but don't be afraid of substituting chevre in the middle or provolone on top. Maybe there is fresh farmer cheese at the greenmarket. Maybe there is something else that strikes your fancy--sun-dried tomatoes, olives, or roasted peppers? Follow this basic formula, whichever you choose. Serve it with some simply dressed greens

Try using a few varieties of summer squash
Summer Vegetable Lasagna

3-3 1/2 lb Roma tomatoes
4 T+   extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp garlic, minced
sea and freshly ground black pepper
1 pkg spelt lasagna noodles
2 lb assorted zucchini and summer squash
10-15 leaves fresh basil, washed
1 15 oz container pasture-raised ricotta
3 cups shredded provolone cheese


Preheat oven to broil. Put a big pot of lightly salted water on the stove to boil. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil to prevent a nasty clean-up.

Slice the tomatoes into 1/3" thick slices and transfer them to the lined sheet pan. Add a tsp of the minced garlic and about 2 Tbsp olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and gently rub tomatoes with seasonings with clean hands until evenly distributed. Place under the broiler for about 20 minutes, until lightly browned.

Transfer tomatoes to a mixing bowl. Thinly slice summer squash the long way (1/4"-1/3" thick slices?).  Transfer to the pan that the tomatoes were in and season with the remaining oil and garlic, as well as sea salt and pepper. Broil these for 15-20 minutes, or until tender.  Let cool and switch oven to 350 F.

Cook pasta according to directions. While pasta cooks, prepare a 9"x13" lasagna pan. Lightly oil with extra-virgin olive oil.

Layer lasagna in baking dish beginning with a layer of tomatoes and basil leaves, then pasta, then summer squash, pasta, ricotta. Repeat pasta and veggies. Be sure to layer the tomatoes on thick in the middle, so lasagna is saucy and fresh at the same time.  Discard excess tomato juice in bowl (or use it in minestrone) Finish with some tomatoes, then top with shredded provolone.

Bake covered at 350 for 20 minutes, then uncover and bake for 10-15 minutes more.
Let rest 5 minutes and serve.