Baked Autumn Cassoulet

Voila! Autumn Cassoulet!

A cassoulet is a typical French stew traditionally made with sausage, flageolet beans, and bouquet garni. It is delicious, hearty and warming, but not always accessible. Flageolet beans can be hard to find and some people don't go for greasy sausage or sausage at all. I have a favorite vegan version of a cassoulet where I have replaced the butter with olive oil added veggies, and tried to duplicate the sausage's essence without actually adding sausage (or sometimes worse,  vegetarian soy sausage). As with most vegetarian versions of things, I usually try to modify seasoning and texture of a dish to come close to it's meaty counterpart without adding the processed stuff. I'm not ripping up all veggie meats. Some are healthy and tasty and definitely have their time and place. For something with so many great ingredients, though, there really is no reason to use it here.

In garden season, I like to take these really simple ingredients and stew them together slowly all afternoon. Then I pop them in the oven about 30 minutes before dinner and have a great French (inspired) meal. Since it is no longer the season for these veggies to be at their peak, but the winter squashes are pouring in all over, I thought I would incorporate a diced butternut squash into the mix and modify the seasonings a teeny tiny bit to give my autumn cassoulet a hint of spice to showcase the squash. If you think you will miss having sausage in it, add some chicken and apple sausage with chardonnay or some such thing. . .I have used the one just mentioned, but can't remember the brand. Aidell's? Al Fresco? Find a sweet and sage-y autumnal variety, brown it, slice it, and pop it in to stew.

Cook it all slowly till the flavors come together.

Autumn Cassoulet

1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup diced shallots
1 cup sliced celery with tops
1 t finely minced garlic
1 cup diced green pepper
1 small butternut squash, peeled and diced (about 2 1/2 cups)
2 bay leaves
1/2 t dried sage
1/2 t dried thyme
1/2 t dried rosemary
1/4 t ground nutmeg
1/4 t smoked paprika
1/4-1/2 t sea salt
2 cups diced tomatoes
1 can crushed tomatoes
3 cups cooked flageolet beans or navy beans (or approx 2 cans, rinsed)


Warm oil in a cassoulet pan (or medium pot). Add shallots, celery, garlic, pepper, and squash. Cook over medium until everything begins to get fragrant. If you are using sausage, slice it up and throw it in now and let it brown before you continue.

Add herbs, spices (omit smoked paprika if using sausage),  sea salt, and pepper. Cook 3-4 minutes, then add fresh and canned tomatoes. Stir to incorporate everything and add drained beans. Stir again and bring the heat up to a rapid simmer/almost a boil to get it hot, then lower to medium-low and set it on the back burner for an hour or so. If you would like to let it go longer, check it for liquid and add a little water or stock (you should maybe do this anyway so it doesn't dry out. Preheat the oven to 350F.

Taste for seasoning after you are happy with it and pop it in the oven for 20-30 minutes. This part is optional, but I think it really adds something to the finished product.

Serve as an entree with crusty baguette or as a veggie side.**

**a great potluck dish!
**freezes well

Pissaladiere

It's Thursday again.  An always busy day, but also often the signal that my week of marketing, planning, menu changes, cooking, and clean-ups is coming to a close (unless, of course, I was insane enough to book weekend parties). Once I sum up the week in invoices, totals and laundry, then the next few days are all mine.  To end each week, I always take some time go over the next week's schedule and plan out menus to try and  fulfill each client's wishes for the following week.  I email them out to each client and then just call it quits for a few days. After three parties and four "stock the fridge" sessions in three days (or something like that), you would think my plans would be really simple for the next week.

In reality, though, when I over-book myself, I begin to plan more and more ambitious and creativity-required menus and dishes, including new recipes that I have no idea about or haven't a clue what the results will be. It is truly frightening to show up to a three-course dinner party for 12 without having even read the dessert recipe yet.  I guess I really like living on the edge.

I'm not sure why I do it.  Maybe to keep myself entertained or maybe I get cocky about how fast I can make a nice crudites on the fly while cooking off 16 Filets, then leaving and starting all over again somewhere else numerous times in a day.

Probably what happens, though, is that while doing the end of the week planning,  in retrospect I think to myself, that wasn't so bad and so then plan another week of challenging and confusing menus where I  must rise to the occasion and accommodate my own high maintenence menus once again.  It's what I do and I do it to myself so I won't complain.  Without working in a "real" kitchen, maybe the insanity of it all keeps me feeling connected to the restaurant folks. Some really great food comes out of these off-the-cuff sort of menus and I find that the frantic prep sessions often turn out the best recipes.

Ever since I was in culinary school, I have fantasized about whipping up a Pissaladiere, which is a French pizza-savory tart type of thing.  It is traditionally made with caramelized onions, anchovies, and French oil-cured olives.  I LOVE it, but until yesterday have never gotten around to actually making one.  I was hired to cook for a party in honor of and to raise campaign funds for the governer of Maine.  It was a simple wine and hors d'ouevre event where the governer would be speaking.  What better time to fulfill a food fantasy and try something brand new that I have never made before?  Ha.  Well, all went well and thanks to Ina Garten, I printed off a perfect recipe for pissaladiere.  It was gorgeous, lovely, and beautiful and I highly recommend making one to munch on this weekend.

While the party was going on, the kids were in the kitchen and they loved this, too! If you have adventurous eaters at home, they will make this disappear, so better go ahead and make two.

The recipe I used is from Barefoot in Paris, by Ina Garten.  Hers is a classic, traditional pissaladiere, but I added some freshly grilled artichokes from Citarella.  I thought it would be a nice seasonal adjustment that would accommodate more palettes.  Here it is.  Don't be put off because it uses a yeasted crust.  It's very simple and very fast.  Really, you should make it. 

Pissaladiere

adapted from Barefoot in Paris, by Ina Garten

makes two 10"x15" pissaladieres

For onion topping (halve this to just make one):
1/2 cup good oliveoil, plus extra for brushing
4 pounds yellow onions, halved and sliced 1/4" thick
2 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
3 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 whole cloves garlic

For the dough:
1 1/4 cups warm water
2 envelopes dry yeast
1 tablespoon honey
3 tablespoons good olive oil
4 cups all purpose flour, plus extra for kneading
2 teaspoons kosher salt

To assemble:
Cornmeal, for baking
12-18 anchovy fillets (and/or 3-5 large grilled artichoke bottoms, thinly sliced)
12 French black olives, preferable oil-cured, pitted (I halved mine)

DIRECTIONS
For the topping, heat the olive oil in a very large saute pan and cook the onions, thyme, salt, pepper, and garlic over low heat for 45 minutes, until the onions are sweet and cooked but not browned.  Toss the onions from time to time.  After 30 minutes, take out the garlic, chop it roughly, and add it back to the onions.

Meanwhile, for the dough, combine the water, yeast, honey, and olive oil in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook.  (If the bowl, is cold, start with warmer water so it's at least 100 degrees F when you add the yeast.) Add 3 cups of the flour, then the salt, and mix on medium-low speed.  While mixing, add 1 more cup of flour or just enough to make a soft dough.  Mix the dough on medium-low speed for about 10 minutes, until smooth, sprinkling it with flour to keep it from sticking to the bowl.  When the dough is ready, turn it out onto a floured board and knead it by hand a dozen times.  It should be smooth and elastic.  Place the dough in a a well-oiled bowl and turn it to cover lightly with oil.  Cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel.  Allow tho rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

Divide the dough into 2 equal parts, rolling each one into a smooth ball.  If you're only making 1 pissaladiere, place 1 ball on a baking sheet and cover it loosely with a damp towel.  Allow the dough to rest for 10 minutes.  (If you're making just one and not using the other dough, wrap it well and refrigerate or freeze it for the next time.)  Roll the dough lightly with a rolling pin, then stretch it to a 10"x15" rectangle and place it on a baking sheet that is sprinkled with yellow cornmeal.

If the onions are very oily, you can drain them in a mesh strainer for a few minutes before you move on to the next step
.
Spoon the onion topping onto the dough, leaving a 3/4" border all around.  Artfully arrange the artichokes or anchovies and olives on top, brush the edge of the dough  with olive oil, and bake for 15 minutes, or until the crust is crisp.  Serve hot on a cutting board.

It is so good.

Scallops Provencal

Whether you are celebrating Easter, Passover, spring, or nothing at all, this is an elegant and tasty appetizer to enjoy this weekend. It serves about 4-6 as an appetizer. If you are bringing this to a holiday gathering, definitely double (or triple!) the recipe and cook in batches. It is so delicious you will want this one again and again!

I have changed some things from the original and like serving it with fresh lemon wedges.

Scallops Provencal
adapted from foodnetwork.com, Barefoot in Paris, 2004, by Ina Garten

1 lb fresh sea scallops
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
A few tablespoons unbleached white flour
½ stick unsalted butter
½ cup sliced shallots
1 garlic clove, minced
¼ cup chopped Italian parsley
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 lemon, halved


Rinse scallops and pat dry thoroughly. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss with flour in a mixing bowl.

In a very large saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter over high heat until sizzling and add the scallops in 1 layer. Lower the heat to medium and allow the scallops to brown lightly on 1 side without moving them, then turn and brown lightly on the other side. This should take 3 to 4 minutes, total. Melt the rest of the butter in the pan with the scallops; then add the shallots, garlic, and parsley and sauté for 2 minutes, tossing the seasonings with the scallops. Add the wine, cook for 1 minute, and taste for seasoning. Serve hot with a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve with fresh lemon wedges.

Cafe au Lait and Beignets

snowy, snowy Brooklyn

If you are anything like me, you are feeling lucky today. The snow is coming down and lots of things in NYC have been cancelled. I love an impromptu day of nothing. I like to catch up on reading and feel no pressure to hurry up or get to this place or that. Usually on a day like this, I like to do a bit of organizing and often a bit of cooking as I putter around the apartment peering out at the snow coming down.

It's a great day to treat yourself to a comforting cafe au lait with beignets. They take awhile to make, but are pretty straightforward. Start them now and you will have beignets and coffee for your afternoon snack. You probably have all of the ingredients on hand and Fat Tuesday is next week...take advantage of the extra time today and enjoy being snowed in. If you are a Saints fan, you could make these in honor of the Superbowl win. In general, New Orleans-y food seems fitting right about now. You won't have the whole experience of sitting at Cafe du Monde on a sweltering day with marching band sounds playing in the background, but you can turn the heat up and throw on some music, if you are so inclined. You won't regret that first steamy bite of a classic Cafe du Monde-style beignet!

Here is a scratch recipe for beignets. According to the author at NolaCuisine.com, it beats the Cafe du Monde mix by a lot. I believe him. Let's try it, shall we?

New Orleans Style Beignet Recipe
**These take awhile, so start them well ahead of time.**
Makes about 2 dozen

1 Envelope Active Dry Yeast
3/4 Cup Water (110 degrees F)
1/4 Cup Granulated Sugar
1/2 tsp Salt
1 Beaten Egg
1/2 Cup Evaporated Milk
3 1/2 – 3 3/4 Cups A.P. Flour
1/8 Cup Shortening
Vegetable Oil for Frying
Powdered Sugar in a shaker or sifter

Combine the Yeast, Water, and Sugar in the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook (You could also make this in a food processor, or the old fashioned way, by hand). Let this sit until frothy, about 5 minutes, then add the Salt, Egg, and Evaporated Milk.

Mix on low speed, then add half of the flour until it starts to come together, then add the shortening. When the shortening is incorporated start adding the remaining flour, a little at a time until most of it is incorporated. At this time I always turn the dough onto a floured bench to finish by hand, just like when I make bread; it’s a touch thing. Knead the dough adding just enough flour as necessary to make a non-sticky, smooth dough.

Place the dough into a large oiled bowl, loosely cover and let rise. After the dough has doubled in bulk, punch it down and turn it onto a floured surface and roll out into a rectangle that is about 1/2″ thick. With a very sharp knife working at a diagonal to the rectangle, cut into 2″ wide strips. Now cut into diamond shapes by making diagonal cuts in the opposite direction. Place the Beignets on a floured baking sheet to let rise about 40 minutes in a warm place (I place them in a barely warm oven).

When the Beignets have risen, heat 2-3 inches of vegetable oil in a large saucepan to 350-360 degrees. Place 2-3 Beignets into the hot oil at a time, being careful not to smash or deflate them. When they are golden brown, flip them over until golden brown on the other side (They go pretty quickly so start checking them right after they go into the oil). Remove to paper towel lined plates to drain. Serve hot topped with plenty of powdered sugar (because the dough doesn’t contain much sugar, you will want a lot!). Best served with Cafe au Lait. Enjoy!


Cafe au lait: In French, it means coffee with milk. In New Orleans, it means strong chicory-infused coffee mixed 50/50 with scalded milk and served in a wide bowl-type mug.

The easiest way to do this is brew Cafe du Monde coffee, which is readily available in supermarkets, not just in New Orleans anymore. If you don't have any at home and they don't have any at the corner deli, just brew a nice, strong pot of coffee. Pour some milk (*or soy milk or almond milk) into a small pot and scald it, which means almost bring to a boil or bring just under a boil. If you are a perfectionist, this means 170 degrees F, but I never check. Then pour the milk and the chicory coffee together in a wide mug.

*If you use milk alternatives, be sure to pour it through a fine sieve on it's way into the mug, because soy milk/rice milk/almond milk-type things tend to curdle when heated--it's perfectly fine, just strain it.


Bon Appetit, Mon Cher!

Vegetarian Cassoulet

Here is a great one-dish meal for a chilly week. A cassoulet is a French casserole, traditionally made with sausage, beans, herbs, and vegetables. This one has similar seasonings and gets it's depth from smoked paprika. It is hearty, filling, and healthy and goes great with a warm baguette. Flageolet beans are the classic cassoulet bean. They can be found at Citarella or other specialty food store. Navy beans are a decent substitute. You can also use canned beans, if you like. I have never seen canned flageolets, but it's always possible. If you use dried, soak the beans in the morning, so they are ready to go when you begin the recipe.

Vegetarian Cassoulet

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup diced shallots
¾ cup chopped celery
1 t minced garlic
1 cup diced green pepper
2 cups diced tomatoes
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 bouquet garni
Dash of smoked paprika or smoked sea salt
Sea salt and white pepper
3 cups dry flageolet beans, or navy beans
1 cup water or vegetable broth

Soak dry beans for 6-10 hours and drain. Fill a pot with fresh water. Add soaked beans, 2 Tbsp sea salt, and a bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then lower to medium. Cook until beans are tender, about an hour. Drain when done; set aside.

Heat oil in a medium pot, Dutch oven, or cassoulet. Cook shallots for 4-5 minutes on low. Add celery, garlic, green pepper, tomatoes, and spices. Bring to almost a boil, then lower heat. Cook for 30 minutes.

Add cooked beans and about a cup of broth or water.

Simmer one hour on low until liquid thickens (uncovered). Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Bake for 30 minutes in large ramequins or cassoulet dish to serve. This is great to make ahead. Just do the last step when you’re ready to eat.

Julia's Boeuf Bourguignon

Julia on the left, Meryl Streep portraying her on the right in Julie & Julia

I did it! On Friday, I printed out a copy of Julia's famous version of the timeless French recipe and off I went to the market to pick up the ingredients for Julia's Boeuf Bourguignon! Since seeing Julie and Julia, I have been dying to make it, so I talked a client into it and tacked it onto Friday's menu.

My style of cooking is typically an improvisational game consisting of flavor balancing, adapting the new to the old, and generally just feeling my way through the ingredients, while inspired by traditional flavors and technique. When I do follow a recipe to the number, it is usually what I focus on in the beginning of the cooking day and I just get through it, so I can jump back into an inventive groove and get back to "my" cuisine. Little did I know, Julia was about to keep me in check and hold me in the recipe game for hours...I mean all day.

The recipe is actually not complicated, but like most French food, technique, timing, and following instructions count--big time. This recipe requires attention in the first 20 or so steps, that's right, the first 20 steps. After the stew is put in the oven to cook for 3 or 4 hours, you are not finished. There are other steps to prepare, not complicated ones, but they are steps nonetheless. Julia's Boeuf Bourguignon is not a recipe to just tack on to an already varied and complex menu. I could have spent all day savoring each step and smelling this fragrant dish as it came together. Alas, that wasn't my day. I made it through, though, preparing the entire menu, and managing to enjoy myself despite occasionally nearing a kitchen meltdown. I think Julia would have been proud. Here it is. Remember, pat the meat dry. If any of you make it or have made it, I would love to hear any comments or reflections about your experience.

Boeuf Bourguignon a La Julia Child
adapted from "Mastering the Art of French Cooking"

For the Stew

6 ounces bacon, solid chunk
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 lbs lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 carrot, peeled and sliced

1 onion, peeled and sliced

1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper, freshly ground
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups red wine (a full bodied wine like Bordeaux, Burgundy, or Chianti)
2-3 cups beef stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 garlic cloves, mashed (you may choose to add more)
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf

For the braised onions

18-24 white pearl onions, peeled
1 1 /2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup beef stock
salt and fresh ground pepper
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
2 sprigs parsley

For the sauteed mushrooms

1 lb mushrooms, quartered
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil

1. First prepare the bacon: cut off the rind and reserve.
2. Cut the bacon into lardons about 1/4" thick and 1 1/2" long.
3. Simmer the rind and the lardons for ten minutes in 1 1/2 quarts of water.
4. Drain and dry the lardons and rind and reserve.
5. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
6. Put the tablesoon of olive oil in a large (9"-10"wide, 3"deep) fireproof casserole and warm over moderate heat.
7. Saute the lardons for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly.
8. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.
9. Dry off the pieces of beef and saute them, a few at at a time in the hot oil/bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides.
10. Once browned, remove to the side plate with the bacon.
11. In the same oil/fat, saute the onion and the carrot until softened.
12. Pour off the fat and return the lardons and the beef to the casserole with the carrots and onion.
13. Toss the contents of the casserole with the salt and pepper and sprinkle with the flour.
14. Set the uncovered casserole in the oven for four minutes.
15. Toss the contents of the casserole again and return to the hot oven for 4 more minutes.
16. Now, lower the heat to 325 degrees and remove the casserole from the oven.
17. Add the wine and enough stock so that the meat is barely covered.
18. Add the tomato paste, garlic, and herbs and the bacon rind.
19. Bring to a simmer on top of the stove.
20. Cover and place in the oven, adjusting the heat so that the liquid simmers very slowly for three to four hours.
21. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.
22. While the meat is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms and set them aside till needed.
23. For the onion, if using frozen, make sure they are defrosted and drained.
24. Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet and add the onions to the skillet.
25. Saute over medium heat for about ten minutes, rolling the onions about so they brown as evenly as possible, without breaking apart.
26. Pour in the stock, season to taste, add the herbs, and cover.
27. Simmer over low heat for about 40-50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape and the liquid has mostly evaporated.
28. Remove the herbs and set the onions aside.
29. For the mushrooms, heat the butter and oil over high heat in a large skillet.
30. As soon as the foam begins to subside, add athe mushrooms and toss and shake the pan for about five minutes.
31. As soon as they have browned lightly, remove from heat.
32.To Finish the Stew:
33. When the meat is tender, remove the casserole from the oven and empty it's contents into a sieve set over a saucepan.
34. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it (discarding the bits of carrot and onion and herbs which remain in the sieve).
35. Distribute the mushrooms and onions over the meat.
36. Skim the fat off the surface an simmer it for a minute or two, skimming off any additional fat which rises to the surface.
37. You should be left with about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly.
38. If the sauce is too thick, add a few tablespoons of stock.
39. If the sauce is too thin, boil it down to reduce to the right consistency.
40.Taste for seasoning.
41. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables.
42. If you are serving immediately, place the covered casserole over medium low heat and simmer 2 to 3 minutes.
43. Serve in the casserole or on a warm platter surrounded by noodles, potatoes, or rice and garnished with fresh parsley.
44. If serving later or the next day, allow the casserole to cool and place cold, covered casserole in the refrigerator.
45. 20 minutes prior to serving, place over medium low heat and simmer very slowly for ten minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.