Curried Sweet Potato and Coconut Chowder

Fusion cuisine is something I think about doing often and decide against almost as often, depending on who will be eating the food. Fusing together different cuisines and techniques isn't something everyone loves and definitely requires an open mind and a sense of adventure. For some eaters, it is downright confusing if they are not versed in the inspiration for the new-fangled dish. On the other hand, I love trying favorite ethnic seasonings in unexpected concoctions and some cuisines were just meant to go together, such as French and Moroccan or Peruvian and Chinese. Fusing cuisines and getting super experimental isn't for the beginning cook, but trying it can give a beginner or novice some insight into the creative process used by cooking professionals. Everyone's cooking technique can benefit by pondering what makes nouveau, nouvelle, or fusion foods good.

I love exotic flavors and preparations, but also appreciate classic, reliable American flavors and forms.  When I'm thinking of fusing two techniques or cuisines together, sometimes I consider and reconsider, should I use the technique of recipe A and the seasonings of cuisine B or vice versa or somewhere in between? After much trial and error, I usually find that keeping the technique of the title  (such as chowder, chili, turnover, wrap, etc) is the best way to ground the dish and keep it true to it's name and your intention. Then comes the switching out of seasonings and ingredients to "fuse" an unexpected flavor, cuisine, or dish into the other. Sometimes you are just dying to use an ingredient scavenged from the greenmarket or you are just trying to use up something in the fridge in a creative way before it goes bad. Either way, developing a complete idea around the ingredient is the best way to ensure that things will come out great without going too far "out there" making the food unrecognizable. Using this theory can keep the novice cook from going completely astray and give the experienced cook or chef a clear sense of direction and, so makes the process more enjoyable. Sounds calculated for such a creative concept, doesn't it? It's not. These are just some general observations and rules of thumb to get thinking about creative cooking technique.

There is lots of room for variation in so-called "fusion cuisine". Here my appreciation for all-American chowder  is amped up with my obsession with sweet potatoes and Indian seasonings.  Coconut milk replaces milk and cream. Instead of celery and thyme as dominant seasonings, I used chaat masala, whole mustard and cumin seeds, and ginger.  Minced cilantro replaces parsley. Finish with a little lemon (or lime!).  As this simmered on my stove, I realized it was begging for some seafood (curry, coconut, fish..Yea!) and I had some leftover poached wild salmon hanging around, so in it went! This would be great with protein additions such as fish or shellfish, tofu, red beans, or any other thing you think should be tossed in. My fish was cooked so I added it at the end. For raw fish or meat, add it when you add the sweet potatoes and peppers. The result is technically a chowder, but with pungeant, spicy, and deep flavors of South Indian cuisine. Warm some of this up and enjoy with naan, paratha, rotis, or chapatis and maybe some green chutney and yogurt.

Gather your mise before you begin!

Curried Sweet Potato and Coconut Chowder

9-grain paratha from my Indian market

4 T virgin coconut oil (yes, it is good for you:)
1 t black mustard seeds
1 t whole cumin seeds
1-2 T chaat masala (or substitute garam masala or Sambar)
1 t paprika (I use hot, sweet is okay)
1 t ground turmeric
2 t minced fresh ginger
2 T minced fresh garlic

1 medium onion, diced
2 lb sweet potatoes (Jewel or Garnet yams), peeled and diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
2 lg carrots, sliced into 1/2" rounds
2 t sea salt
1/2-1 t honey (opt.)
2 cans coconut milk (or 1 can coconut milk, 1 can water for a light consistency)


In the bottom of a soup pot, melt down coconut oil and add mustard seeds and cumin seeds. Cook for one minute before adding remaining spices, ginger, and garlic. Stir and cook 3-4 minutes over medium until spices are fragrant.

Add diced onion and cook for another 2-3 minutes, stirring until onion begins to soften. Add sweet potatoes, pepper, and carrots and season with sea salt. Add honey and coconut milk (and water, if using) and stir to incorporate. Turn heat up and bring to almost a boil. Lower heat right away and let simmer for about 25 minutes, uncovered. Stir occasionally and check for tenderness.

When carrots and sweet potatoes are very tender, taste for seasoning and spiciness and adjust. Add about a cup of chopped cilantro and a healthy squirt of lemon juice. Serve immediately or let cool and reheat for later.

Baked Autumn Cassoulet

Voila! Autumn Cassoulet!

A cassoulet is a typical French stew traditionally made with sausage, flageolet beans, and bouquet garni. It is delicious, hearty and warming, but not always accessible. Flageolet beans can be hard to find and some people don't go for greasy sausage or sausage at all. I have a favorite vegan version of a cassoulet where I have replaced the butter with olive oil added veggies, and tried to duplicate the sausage's essence without actually adding sausage (or sometimes worse,  vegetarian soy sausage). As with most vegetarian versions of things, I usually try to modify seasoning and texture of a dish to come close to it's meaty counterpart without adding the processed stuff. I'm not ripping up all veggie meats. Some are healthy and tasty and definitely have their time and place. For something with so many great ingredients, though, there really is no reason to use it here.

In garden season, I like to take these really simple ingredients and stew them together slowly all afternoon. Then I pop them in the oven about 30 minutes before dinner and have a great French (inspired) meal. Since it is no longer the season for these veggies to be at their peak, but the winter squashes are pouring in all over, I thought I would incorporate a diced butternut squash into the mix and modify the seasonings a teeny tiny bit to give my autumn cassoulet a hint of spice to showcase the squash. If you think you will miss having sausage in it, add some chicken and apple sausage with chardonnay or some such thing. . .I have used the one just mentioned, but can't remember the brand. Aidell's? Al Fresco? Find a sweet and sage-y autumnal variety, brown it, slice it, and pop it in to stew.

Cook it all slowly till the flavors come together.

Autumn Cassoulet

1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup diced shallots
1 cup sliced celery with tops
1 t finely minced garlic
1 cup diced green pepper
1 small butternut squash, peeled and diced (about 2 1/2 cups)
2 bay leaves
1/2 t dried sage
1/2 t dried thyme
1/2 t dried rosemary
1/4 t ground nutmeg
1/4 t smoked paprika
1/4-1/2 t sea salt
2 cups diced tomatoes
1 can crushed tomatoes
3 cups cooked flageolet beans or navy beans (or approx 2 cans, rinsed)


Warm oil in a cassoulet pan (or medium pot). Add shallots, celery, garlic, pepper, and squash. Cook over medium until everything begins to get fragrant. If you are using sausage, slice it up and throw it in now and let it brown before you continue.

Add herbs, spices (omit smoked paprika if using sausage),  sea salt, and pepper. Cook 3-4 minutes, then add fresh and canned tomatoes. Stir to incorporate everything and add drained beans. Stir again and bring the heat up to a rapid simmer/almost a boil to get it hot, then lower to medium-low and set it on the back burner for an hour or so. If you would like to let it go longer, check it for liquid and add a little water or stock (you should maybe do this anyway so it doesn't dry out. Preheat the oven to 350F.

Taste for seasoning after you are happy with it and pop it in the oven for 20-30 minutes. This part is optional, but I think it really adds something to the finished product.

Serve as an entree with crusty baguette or as a veggie side.**

**a great potluck dish!
**freezes well

Vegetable Guinness Stew

The Guinness meets the stew!

This week is the last week of winter and the week of everyone's favorite Irish holiday.  Since usually I try to avoid the frat boy-style, drunken helter-skelter of New York City on this notorious day, but still like to enjoy some authentic Irish flavors,  this year I celebrated with friends the weekend before.  A little cooking and a few people hanging out was the perfect way to catch up and slurp up one last meal of winter vegetables .  With a little motivation and some nice root vegetables I was inspired to make not just corned beef and cabbage, but also a vegetarian Guinness stew encouraged by the flavors and seasonings of the traditional Guinness beef stew that is typically found on pub menus world-wide.  The rest of the spread took care of itself since Irish food and drink are pretty simple and straightforward.

It's not Guinness.  It's Chocolate Guinness Pudding!

My gracious guests arrived with freshly baked Irish soda bread, sharp Irish cheddar with crackers and  Branston pickle, and brace yourself... chocolate Guinness pudding served in beer glass and topped with whipped cream with Guinness reduction folded in to top off the 'glass of Guinness' look.  We guzzled some Guinness, Black and Tans made with Smithwicks, and an adventurous Irish Whiskey cocktails made with freshly juiced ginger and oranges.

Prepping my mise

We ate, drank, and were merry and so I won't miss participating in the actual St. Patrick's Day one bit.  I got my fill and got to catch up with good friends and will enjoy these hearty leftovers at home in peace this Thursday.  Whether you are staying in or going out, this one is worth a try.  This recipe was a big hit and I just may have to make it part of my annual repertoire.

Vegetable Guinness Stew

4 T extra-virgin olive oil (or Irish butter, if you want)
1 large onion, cut into chunks
2 leeks, washed and sliced
1 t minced garlic
1 1/2 lb medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 lb parsnips, peeled and cut into large chunks
1 white turnip, approx. tennis ball sized, peeled and cut into large chunks
2 lb carrots, scrubbed and cut into large chunks
about 10 oz halved or quartered white button mushrooms
1 small head savoy cabage, shredded
2 springs rosemary
2 tsp sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 16oz. cans Guinness
3 T tomato paste
1 2" piece of orange peel
2 t vegetarian Worcestershire sauce or tamari
enough water to cover, if needed

In a large stock pot, warm olive oil and add onion and leeks.  Cook a few minutes to soften, then add garlic and cook 5 minutes.

Add veggies, rosemary, salt, and pepper.  Stir to mix them all up and cook for 10-15 minutes.  Add Guinness, tomato paste, orange peel, worcestershire or tamari, and just enough water to cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil, stir, then immediately lower heat to low and partially cover.  Cook for about 4 hours on very low heat.  Stir every now and again very gently, trying not to break up the root vegetables.

Taste and season for salt and pepper.  Enjoy a hearty bowl with some bread and Irish butter.

Guinness Stew

GUINNESS: Sent from the heavens? Quite possibly.

Not only is today the last holiday of the winter, but this week is the last week of winter! By the calendar and also by the weather and the air. It's really turning into spring out there! The birds are chirping a different tune when I head out early. The breeze has a bit of warmth to it that it didn't have just a week ago. If you are paying attention, it really happens fast. So, this week I am posting all the remaining recipes I wanted to share before this long and snowy winter is officially over this Saturday.

On this fine St. Patty's day, here is an idea that doesn't take too long. I should have posted last night to give all ye Irishmen (and Irishwomen) a chance to shop or start putting this together, but, alas, I didn't. It takes about two hours so if you can get home and get the stuff in the pot, you can sit back and enjoy a Guinness while your stew stews.

The way I got this recipe was by combining a few different ones that I found and I think it will turn out great (if you are a kitchen improviser or have the luck o' the Irish). Just kidding--I just wanted to say that. It will turn out great for sure! Here is the beef version, but if you prefer veggies, replace the beef chunks with about a pound of assorted mushrooms roughly chopped. They carry the hearty Guinness flavor well.

Guinness Stew

2 lb lean stewing meat or 1-1 1/2 lb assorted mushrooms (roughly chopped)
3 Tbsp butter
2 Tbsp flour
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Pinch of cayenne
2 lg onions, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
1 lg parsnip, peeled and cut into chunks
1 1/2 lb potatoes, scrubbed and cut into chunks
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1 bottle of Guinness

Trim the beef (or mushrooms) and brown in a large pot for about 7-9 minutes. Set aside.

In the large pot, now melt butter on low heat and whisk in flour to make a roux. Cook for 8 minutes or so until it takes on a bit of color.

Add the onions, garlic, carrot, parsnip, and potatoes and turn heat up until everything is hot and beginning to sizzle. Add meat and brown sugar. Toss together 1 minute, then slowly add the bottle of Guinness. Add enough water to just cover everything and bring to a boil for a minute. Reduce heat to medium-low and partially cover.
Season with sea salt and black pepper.

Cook for 2 hours with beef or 1 hour with mushrooms.

Serve with an ice cold Guinness!

Out of Africa and Into my Kitchen

The truth is, I have been meaning to dive into learning the art of Ethiopian cooking for months. After my last Ethiopian entry I was completely enamored with the meal I had had at Ghenet in Brooklyn. I was so into it that I knew I needed a cookbook to start deciphering all those rich and colorful flavors. I did a bit of searching online and unwisely skipped the recommended Ethiopian cookbook, opting for The Africa Cookbook, which I thought I would benefit more from since the recipes featured are from all the African countries. Plus, it was much cheaper and I thought I was getting more bang for the buck. When will I learn??

The Africa Cookbook, by Jessica B. Harris isn't a bad book. It's actually quite interesting, offering lore, history, and tradition in the beginning and throughout the recipe sections. What it doesn't have is a collection of the fabulous, specifically Ethiopian dishes I have had a few times now and daydream about (I mean it, I really dream of these--It's so good.) It has not much at all regarding making your own injera bread. I assumed that since Ethiopian food is the most famous of African cuisines that it would be featured and highlighted more. Not so. While most of the recipes are interesting combinations of meats, fish, calabaza squash, peanuts, tomatoes, greens, and grains, that's all most of it is. Just braised stuff. No exciting spice blends, no exotic procedure to learn, and no perfectly seasoned gourmet African dish. Silly me. This book is actually authentic!

So, I surrendered to the book and chose two recipes, one beef and one vegetable and decide to try them out. I made them today so after a busy Thursday (tomorrow), we will have a good dinner ready to go. Well...here's how it went.

First off, I would like to say that the biggest thing I learned is that Ethiopian food is drastically different than most other African cuisines. The vegetable recipe I chose was Ethiopian, but the beef recipe was from Congo and had NO seasonings. I just had to add more salt, along with a few teaspoons dried ginger, some garlic powder, and some sweet paprika. I had to. They are seemingly "safe"additions that I thought I could add without totally de-Congo-ing the dish, but I probably did. I have no clue what people eat in the Congo.

The vegetable dish turned out great, but....it was an okra dish and I looked everywhere and could not find a fresh okra pod in Greenpoint to save my life. (I will be really annoyed if I see some tomorrow in Manhattan when I'm working.) Anyway, I substituted collard greens because I knew that they were also a common Ethiopian ingredient. What the hell, right?

So I followed the recipes with all of the above in mind, if you can even call that following the recipes. You know what? It's going to be a great meal. The veggies are so very simple and taste amazing. The beef needs to stew a bit longer tomorrow and I may add some cayenne and/or curry powder depending on how the flavors blend overnight. Not bad for a seemingly losing battle of incorrect African regions, lack of seasoning, and an okra-free Brooklyn.

Here are the recipes. If you try them and add something exciting, please post it!

a mound of ingredients awaiting their destiny

Ethiopian-Style Okra (or collards if you're me) OR Bamya Alich'A

4 cups young okra pods
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/2 cups minced red onions
2 cups coarsely chopped, seeded peeled ripe tomatoes
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons minced ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
2 jalapeno chiles, minced, or to taste


Wash and top and tail the okra, discarding any blemished or hard pods (or wash and spin your collard and roughly chop them ; ) Split each pod in half lengthwise. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan and cook the onions until they are light brown. Add the tomatoes and bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the okra, cook, uncovered, over low heat for 20 minutes, then add the chiles and continue to cook for 5 minutes. **Adjust the seasoning and remove from the heat. Serve hot or at room temperature.

**I added salt and extra cardamom and finished the dish with a healthy squirt of fresh lemon juice.
THIS IS REALLY GOOD!!

collards and beef stewing nicely

Mwambe Beef (Congo)
serves 4 to 6

3 lb beef, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons peanut oil (I used fragrant peanut oil--healthier and tastier!)
2 large onions, chopped
1/8 teaspoon habanero chile (I used 1/2 jalapeno)
7 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, coarsely chopped (I used 1/2 fresh, 1/2 canned)
4 cups water


Rub the beef pieces with the lemon juice and salt. Heat the oil in a heavy stockpot or Dutch oven, add the beef and the onions, and cook until the onions are translucent and the beef is lightly browned. (Here is where I added ginger, garlic, and paprika. I think dried mint or cilantro and also some garam masala or a pinch of cloves would also be a nice addition--get creative.) Add the remaining ingredients, lower the heat, cover, and cook for 1 1/2 hours, or until the beef is fork-tender. Serve hot with white rice.

Root Vegetable Stew

It is so cold outside and there really isn't much seasonal produce in the Northeast at this point. If you venture to the greenmarket, you will find potatoes, assorted other root vegetables, and onions--not exactly the makings of a meal, or is it?

In striving to eat with the seasons, I invented this stew a few years ago and it became an instant classic in my book. It may be my most requested stew and probably my healthiest stew. It is hearty, filling, and flavorful and lends a little excitement to the table by exploring and utilizing the less popular and often overlooked root vegetables. This time of year, our bodies need the particular nutrients that these veggies offer. This stew is really inexpensive to make and will help you through the coldest months.

You can use any combination, but here is how I like to do it. The yucca and taro can be hard to find. I usually find yucca at regular grocery stores in NYC. The taro I can only find in Chinatown. If you can't find them, substitute with other roots and you will yield a fine result.

If you aren't certain which roots are which here is a quick overview.

Parsnips: the long ones that look like white carrots
Turnips: usually small and white with purple bottoms
Rutabaga: large yellowish turnips also with purple bottoms and often waxed
Celeriac: knobby, beige, and often dirty and smells like celery!
Taro: looks like a very rough potato with lines going around it
Yucca: looks like long sweet potatoes, but have a white inside, often waxed



Celeriac (a.k.a. Celery Root), Turnips, and Taro Root

Root Vegetable Stew

1 large onion, chopped
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil or virgin coconut oil
2 tsp sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp allspice
dash of nutmeg
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

1 Yukon Gold potato
1 medium sweet potato
1 medium carrot
1 medium parsnip
1 celeriac, roughly the size of a softball
1 turnip
1 rutabaga
2 golden beets
1 small yucca root
1 taro root

32 oz vegetable broth
water, as needed
3-4 Tbsp arrowroot, cornstarch, or flour for thickening
chopped parsley or chervil for garnish


In a large pot, cook onion and garlic in olive oil over medium heat. Season with salt, pepper, and spices.

While onions cook, start prepping your root vegetables. You will want to chop them all roughly the same size so they cook evenly. Peel all of the root vegetables* (you don't have to peel the potato, carrot, and sweet potato if they are organic) and cut them into roughly 1 inch by 2 inch pieces. I like to leave the carrots and parsnips long if they have a nice shape--just a little visual variety.

*The turnip, beets, parsnip, and taro can probably be peeled with a vegetable peeler. The celeriac, rutabaga, and yucca are best peeled by cutting the skin away with a large knife. Be sure to rinse the peeled celeriac after cutting--the dirt from the outside tends to get everywhere!

As you chop veggies, transfer them to the pot and stir them in with onions and continue cooking on low until all of the root vegetables are in the pot. Add vegetable broth and enough water to just cover them and crank the heat up. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, or until vegetables are tender and a few inches of liquid has reduced.

When veggies are tender, taste and adjust salt, pepper, and spices.

Using a ladle, transfer about 2 cups of broth to a bowl, mix arrowroot, cornstarch, or flour with the liquid and stir well until there are no lumps. Transfer back to the stew pot and cook a minute or two until the sauce thickens.

Serve as is or with a little grated pecorino.

Stay Warm!

Chili, Chili, Chili

I have never in all of my life made the same pot of chili twice. I love Tex-Mex seasonings, ingredients, and flavors so much that there is no possible way that I could dislike a well-made pot of chili. Whenever I am in the mood for some, I dig through the pantry and usually find a theme to base that pot of chili on. Whether I find a can of chipotles in adobo sauce, powdered ancho chiles, black beans, or tomatillos, I usually get inspired and base all the other ingredients around it.

Chilis almost always have a few base ingredients in common. They start with onions, garlic, and peppers (sometimes bell peppers, sometimes poblano or spicy chiles). From there they could have ground meat, shredded pork, fish, beans of many varieties, tofu, veggies, or almost any other savory morsel you can come up with. If it's seasoned right, it will probably turned out tasting good.

Often chilis are red and tomato based. I love these, but also appreciate green chilis which are tomatillo-based and white chilis which have neither and are typically white bean-based and simmered with chicken, hot chiles, and other various pale ingredients.

I like to use a good amount of garlic in my chili. The flavor marries with the other seasonings, mellows, and really rounds out the aroma. Chopped fresh or garlic powder are both good and lend different notes to the pot.

Other herbs and spices that I love to use in various combinations are:

Ground Cumin
Sweet Paprika
Smoked Paprika
Good old Fashioned Chili Powder
Cayenne Pepper
Dried Chipotle or Ancho Chile Powder
Cocoa Powder
Dried Thyme or Oregano (sounds weird but a GREAT chili seasoning along with cumin--see Pork Chili Verde recipe below)
Dried and/or Fresh Cilantro
Smoked Sea Salt
Lime juice/Lime zest

**By the way, "chile" is a type of pepper and "chili" is the stuff you eat with a spoon.**


Here are two recipes that I often use as base ideas for the chilis I invent. They are both excellent as written, but when you add your own twists, the chili recipe will be all yours. After all, who doesn't love homemade chili with a secret ingredient?

Three-Bean Chili

This one is a classic tomato-based chili with traditional red chili seasonings and kept vegetarian. If you are looking for a meaty red chili, use this as a starting point and brown beef and/or chicken and add them when you add the beans.

¼ c extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, diced
2 large green peppers, seeded and diced
3 lbs chopped roma tomatoes
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeno, minced (remove seeds for less spicy)

3 T sweet paprika
3 T chili powder
2 t ground cumin
Cayenne to taste
Sea salt
Black pepper
1 t smoked paprika (optional)

1 15.5 oz can black beans, rinsed
1 15.5 oz can kidney beans, rinsed
1 15.5 oz can pinto beans, rinsed
1 28 oz can diced tomatoes (regular or fire-roasted)

Optional, but yummy topping:
Grated cheddar cheese
Shredded lettuce


Heat oil in a large pot. Cook onions, peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and jalapeno over medium heat for about 10 minutes.

Season with spices, salt, and pepper. Stir and cook 3-4 more minutes.

Add beans and canned tomatoes.

Cook for at least an hour and up to 3 hours over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, tasting, and adjusting seasonings as you go. Serve with shredded lettuce and grated cheddar on top!

Pork Chili Verde
This one takes all day to cook, but is so worth it! The prep is basic, then it goes into a low oven for 5-6 hours.

Also, chicken or a white bean and potato combo works really well if you are looking for something a little healthier than the authentic pork version. Keep the seasonings the same and reduce the cooking time to 3 hours.

4 T chopped garlic
2 t ground cumin
2 t sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 springs of fresh thyme
3-4 cups diced onion

3-4 lb pork butt or shoulder (with bone)
Extra virgin olive oil

3 green peppers, diced and seeded
8 cups tomatillos, removed from papers, washed,roughly chopped (canned is okay, use the juice!)
a large handful/about 1/2 bunch cilantro, washed and roughly chopped
2-4 jalapenos, washed and minced

2 jars Recaito (Goya makes one in jars or tubs in the freezer section)*
1 cup dry white wine
2 t ground cumin
about 4 cups water or chicken broth


Preheat oven to 250 degrees.

Combine garlic, cumin, salt, and pepper. Rub pork with seasoning, using all of it. Press thyme sprigs into sides of meat. It's okay if they don't stick well. They just need to get into the pan and brown with the meat.

Heat oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add pork, thyme, and diced onions. Brown all sides of the pork, about 7 minutes per side. Stir onions around occasionally if they are browning fast.

Transfer meat, onions, and thyme to a deep roasting pan when meat is nicely browned.

Evenly distribute prepped green peppers, tomatillos, cilantro, and jalapenos over and around meat. Add recaito, wine, cumin, and water or broth. You want the liquid the mostly cover the veggies and go up about 2/3 of the meat so depending on your roasting pan, you may need more or less liquid.

Roast in the oven, covered, for about 2 hours. Uncover and roast 2-3 hours more or until meat is very tender. You may want to occasionally check in with the veggies and give them a stir. You can also flip the meat halfway through if you so desire. If it gets very dry and things are charring a lot, you can add more water or broth.

When it's done, remove the meat from the veggies and liquid carefully and place in a large bowl or on a large cutting board. Let cool for 30-60 minutes.

Remove thyme stems or other unwanted stuff from the mix and discard. Shred meat with a fork and/or clean hands and transfer back in to the pan. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Serve warm with fresh tortillas.

*If you cannot find recaito, substitute a mild or medium green salsa/salsa verde.

OR

If you're feeling surly, here is an authentic recaito recipe I just copied and pasted from recipezaar.com. The extras can be frozen and used to make enchilada sauce or other Mexican concoctions!

RECAITO

• 1 medium Spanish onion, cut into big chunks
• 8 garlic cloves, peeled
• 6 ajies dulces, hot peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into chunks or 1 cubanelle pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into chunks
• 4 leaves culantro (if you can't find culantro, increase the amount of cilantro by half)
• 1 cup packed fresh cilantro, stems and all, coarsely chopped

Directions

1. 1

   Place the onion and garlic in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade.

2. 2

   With the motor running, add the remaining ingredients, one at a time and process, until the mixture is smooth.

3. 3

   Set aside the amount you need for the recipe you're preparing.

4. 4

   Pack the remaining recaito in ½-cup portions in sealable plastic bags and store in freezer.

Julia's Boeuf Bourguignon

Julia on the left, Meryl Streep portraying her on the right in Julie & Julia

I did it! On Friday, I printed out a copy of Julia's famous version of the timeless French recipe and off I went to the market to pick up the ingredients for Julia's Boeuf Bourguignon! Since seeing Julie and Julia, I have been dying to make it, so I talked a client into it and tacked it onto Friday's menu.

My style of cooking is typically an improvisational game consisting of flavor balancing, adapting the new to the old, and generally just feeling my way through the ingredients, while inspired by traditional flavors and technique. When I do follow a recipe to the number, it is usually what I focus on in the beginning of the cooking day and I just get through it, so I can jump back into an inventive groove and get back to "my" cuisine. Little did I know, Julia was about to keep me in check and hold me in the recipe game for hours...I mean all day.

The recipe is actually not complicated, but like most French food, technique, timing, and following instructions count--big time. This recipe requires attention in the first 20 or so steps, that's right, the first 20 steps. After the stew is put in the oven to cook for 3 or 4 hours, you are not finished. There are other steps to prepare, not complicated ones, but they are steps nonetheless. Julia's Boeuf Bourguignon is not a recipe to just tack on to an already varied and complex menu. I could have spent all day savoring each step and smelling this fragrant dish as it came together. Alas, that wasn't my day. I made it through, though, preparing the entire menu, and managing to enjoy myself despite occasionally nearing a kitchen meltdown. I think Julia would have been proud. Here it is. Remember, pat the meat dry. If any of you make it or have made it, I would love to hear any comments or reflections about your experience.

Boeuf Bourguignon a La Julia Child
adapted from "Mastering the Art of French Cooking"

For the Stew

6 ounces bacon, solid chunk
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 lbs lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 carrot, peeled and sliced

1 onion, peeled and sliced

1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper, freshly ground
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups red wine (a full bodied wine like Bordeaux, Burgundy, or Chianti)
2-3 cups beef stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 garlic cloves, mashed (you may choose to add more)
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf

For the braised onions

18-24 white pearl onions, peeled
1 1 /2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup beef stock
salt and fresh ground pepper
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
2 sprigs parsley

For the sauteed mushrooms

1 lb mushrooms, quartered
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil

1. First prepare the bacon: cut off the rind and reserve.
2. Cut the bacon into lardons about 1/4" thick and 1 1/2" long.
3. Simmer the rind and the lardons for ten minutes in 1 1/2 quarts of water.
4. Drain and dry the lardons and rind and reserve.
5. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
6. Put the tablesoon of olive oil in a large (9"-10"wide, 3"deep) fireproof casserole and warm over moderate heat.
7. Saute the lardons for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly.
8. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.
9. Dry off the pieces of beef and saute them, a few at at a time in the hot oil/bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides.
10. Once browned, remove to the side plate with the bacon.
11. In the same oil/fat, saute the onion and the carrot until softened.
12. Pour off the fat and return the lardons and the beef to the casserole with the carrots and onion.
13. Toss the contents of the casserole with the salt and pepper and sprinkle with the flour.
14. Set the uncovered casserole in the oven for four minutes.
15. Toss the contents of the casserole again and return to the hot oven for 4 more minutes.
16. Now, lower the heat to 325 degrees and remove the casserole from the oven.
17. Add the wine and enough stock so that the meat is barely covered.
18. Add the tomato paste, garlic, and herbs and the bacon rind.
19. Bring to a simmer on top of the stove.
20. Cover and place in the oven, adjusting the heat so that the liquid simmers very slowly for three to four hours.
21. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.
22. While the meat is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms and set them aside till needed.
23. For the onion, if using frozen, make sure they are defrosted and drained.
24. Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet and add the onions to the skillet.
25. Saute over medium heat for about ten minutes, rolling the onions about so they brown as evenly as possible, without breaking apart.
26. Pour in the stock, season to taste, add the herbs, and cover.
27. Simmer over low heat for about 40-50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape and the liquid has mostly evaporated.
28. Remove the herbs and set the onions aside.
29. For the mushrooms, heat the butter and oil over high heat in a large skillet.
30. As soon as the foam begins to subside, add athe mushrooms and toss and shake the pan for about five minutes.
31. As soon as they have browned lightly, remove from heat.
32.To Finish the Stew:
33. When the meat is tender, remove the casserole from the oven and empty it's contents into a sieve set over a saucepan.
34. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it (discarding the bits of carrot and onion and herbs which remain in the sieve).
35. Distribute the mushrooms and onions over the meat.
36. Skim the fat off the surface an simmer it for a minute or two, skimming off any additional fat which rises to the surface.
37. You should be left with about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly.
38. If the sauce is too thick, add a few tablespoons of stock.
39. If the sauce is too thin, boil it down to reduce to the right consistency.
40.Taste for seasoning.
41. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables.
42. If you are serving immediately, place the covered casserole over medium low heat and simmer 2 to 3 minutes.
43. Serve in the casserole or on a warm platter surrounded by noodles, potatoes, or rice and garnished with fresh parsley.
44. If serving later or the next day, allow the casserole to cool and place cold, covered casserole in the refrigerator.
45. 20 minutes prior to serving, place over medium low heat and simmer very slowly for ten minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.

A SUMMER DINNER PARTY

Spinach Salad with Black Grapes, Mixed Olives, and Lemon Zest Vinaigrette

Pistachio-encrusted Halibut with Spicy Yogurt

Moroccan Chickpea Stew

White Wine-poached Pears with Creme Patisserie

MAKE AHEAD:

Lemon Zest Vinaigrette
Pistachio Crust
Spicy Yogurt
Moroccan Chickpea Stew
White Wine-Poached Pears
Creme Patisserie

THE DAY OF:

Set up spinach salad
Warm stew
Warm pears
Coat and pan-fry halibut

Spinach Salad:

1 clamshell baby spinach
1 1/2 cups mixed olives, pitted (find a mix with kalamata, nicoise, moroccan, and spanish green)
1 cup seedless black grapes
1 cup seedless champagne grapes

Lemon Zest Vinaigrette:

1 clove garlic, minced
1 t dijon mustard
1/4 c white wine vinegar
1/4 c fresh lemon juice
1 T very fine lemon zest (I use my microplane grater for this)
1 t honey, maple syrup, or agave nectar
1/2 t sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 c extra-virgin olive oil

Whisk together all ingredients, except for olive oil. Drizzle oil in slowly while constantly whisking. Taste for salt, sweetener, and oil. Adjust seasoning.

Toss spinach with about 1/2 of dressing. Add grapes and olives to salad bowl or sprinkle generously on individual salad plates. Serve.

Pistachio-encrusted Halibut with Spicy Yogurt

Spicy Yogurt:

1 c Greek yogurt
1/2 cucumber, diced very small
2 T fresh dill, chopped
1/4 c onion, finely chopped
1 T fresh lemon juice
2 t hot paprika or cayenne pepper
1/2 t ground cumin
1 t sea salt
dash of paprika for garnish

Whisk ingredients together and taste for salt and lemon. Adjust, cover, and chill, if you are making it ahead of time.

For Halibut:
4 6-8 oz pieces halibut
1 c milk

2/3 c shelled pistachios
6 T yellow cornmeal
1/2 t sea salt
1/2 t black pepper
1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, blend nuts, cornmeal, salt, and pepper. Set aside. Heat olive oil in frying pan over medium heat. Dip fish fillets in milk, then dredge through nut mixture. Pan in 1/4 cup olive oil-- fry 5-7 minutes on each side on medium heat, until cooked through the middle. Top with spicy yogurt and serve. (If the nuts start getting really dark before fish is done, transfer to a baking dish, and finish in a hot oven (375 degrees or so?)

Moroccan Chickpea Stew

1 onion, diced
2 cloves minced garlic
1 zucchini, cut into half moons
1 lg green pepper, seeded and diced
2 lg vine tomatoes, diced
2 cups crimini mushrooms, sliced
1 c diced carrot
1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil

2 T paprika
2 T ground cumin
2 T garam masala
1 t ground cardamom
1/2 t saffron threads
1 t ground cinnamon
1/2 t ground cloves
1/2 t ground allspice

1 28 oz can crushed tomatoes
2 14 oz cans chickpeas, drained

sea salt and black pepper

Prep veggies and put them all in a large soup/stock pot with olive oil. Cook 10-15 minutes on medium until veggies begin to soften. Stir frequently.

Add spices, canned tomatoes, and chickpeas. Bring to almost a boil, lower heat, and simmer 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. When mixture has thickened a bit and flavors have become uniform, taste, and adjust salt, pepper and spices.

This lasts in the fridge for a few days or freezes well. I like it on it's own as stew or it's a good accompaniment to the halibut. I usually ladle one cup to the center of a plate, place the halibut in the center and garnish with spicy yogurt.

White Wine-Poached Pears with Creme Patisserie

White Wine-Poached Pears
from frenchfood.about.com

2 cups moscato wine (or other sweet white wine)
3 1/2 cups water
1 cinnamon stick
1 vanilla bean
1 lg piece lemon zest
1 T fresh lemon juice
4 ripe pears, carefully peeled with stems intact
2 c sugar

Stir together the white wine, water, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a large saucepan. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat and add the prepared pears. Poach the pears, uncovered, for 7 to 9 minutes, until they turn tender, but not mushy.

Use a large slotted spoon to transfer the pears onto a serving plate. Return the poaching liquid to a simmer, add the sugar, and allow the mixture to reduce by half in volume, about 6 to 8 minutes. The syrup is ready when it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean from the syrup.

Arrange the pears on individual serving plates and drizzle with the wine syrup.

This poached pears in white wine recipe makes 4 servings.

Creme Patisserie

from cooksrecipes.com

3 cups milk
Seeds scraped from one vanilla bean (*or 2 teaspoons vanilla extract)
8 egg yolks
3/4 cup granulated sugar
6 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1. In a 3 quart saucepan combine the milk and vanilla bean seeds. Heat just below the boiling point (scalding).
2. Using an electric mixer (with whisk attachment if available) beat the egg yolks and sugar in a large mixing bowl until they lighten in color. Stir in the cornstarch.
3. Pour about 1/3 of the hot milk into the egg mixture (this is called tempering), whisking continuously to incorporate. Whisk the tempered egg mixture back into the remaining hot milk, and place the saucepan back on the heat. Cook on medium, stirring constantly with the whisk, until the mixture comes to the boil. Reduce heat and boil for about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and gently whisk in the butter.
4. Strain the pastry cream into a bowl, place plastic wrap directly on the surface, and chill completely. Can be made up to 3 days ahead.
   

Makes about 3 1/2 cups.

To serve: place one pear on each serving plate. Spoon reduction syrup over pear, and spoon or pipe 2-3 T creme patisserie next to the pear. Top with a raspberry, if you like, and serve.