Super Easy Paprika and Spice Grilled Trout

Huge brook trout awaiting their fate!

As you may notice, I have been on hiatus from blogging, as well as cooking and musing about food because this spring we welcomed Matilda Mae into our lives and have been doing much more eating, feeding, and baby-cooing than cooking. Priorities have been focused on sleeping, drinking water, and just scrounging up something nutritious to eat rather than imagining up clever preparations or guilty pleasures. Raw veggies and store-bought hummus have been a staple in my diet these past few months and the only cooking I have done is using up fresh ingredients before they go bad but only if Daddy is around to care for our sweet precious. Such is the life of a new mother.  Every week I have been learning to accomplish a bit more than the last and I (now we) am(are) up and around NYC once again. Our little dumpling is turning 3 months this week and we are continuing to inch back into a routine of normal functioning (Our "new normal", that is!).

My in-house fisherman and future fisherwoman

My hard-working husband is finished for the semester with his intense MFA program and I am more than relieved to have him around and less stressed out. We have even made our way out of the city a few weekends and he finally got a fishing trip worked in after wishing for free time for months. We joined him, of course, so we could visit with family while we were up there.  Stream fishing is what he does and brook trout makes a regular appearance in my life and my kitchen. For years we just stuffed those suckers with onions and butter and grilled them (my husband's own recipe). We then began to beer-batter and fry them. Of course, that is tasty, but not the healthiest preparation and really greases everything up. Last week, when he and my father-in-law (also now known as PopPop) headed down to the stream, they returned home with 3 big ones and 1 really big one. Of course, I hadn't given any thought whatsoever to preparation and ended up improvising a not-so-basic marinade made of very basic ingredients I dug up in my in-laws' kitchen. This turned out so tasty I just made it again to finish off the rest of the trout for tonight.

Honestly, she seems more interested in the tutu than the fish...

?

This marinade would be great on all types of fin fish and also would perk up chicken breasts nicely. It also works into many different menus. You can serve it with Asian or Latin-inspired sides or with traditional American sides, too.  Happy grilling season!

Super Easy Paprika and Spice Grilled Trout

4-6 Trout fillets (with skin on if grilling, deboned as much as possible)

MARINADE:

1/2 t garlic powder

1 T sweet paprika

1/2 t ground cinnamon

1/2 t sea salt

1/2 t freshly ground black pepper

3 T extra-virgin olive oil

1 T white wine or red wine vinegar

2 T fresh lemon juice

1/4 c orange juice

1 T honey

Crushed red pepper to taste (opt.)

Rinse fillets well and lay out on a plate or platter in a single layer. In a small bowl, whisk together marinade ingredients and evenly pour over fish fillets. Sprinkle with crushed red pepper, if you like. 

Grill skin side down on high heat for 5 minutes and do not turn. Trout is too delicate and you will lose it in the grill. If you need to cook it inside, just broil on high with skin side down on a broiler pan lined with foil for easy cleanup.

Serve with a fresh lemon wedge.

Mable's Smokehouse

Southern-style comfort food isn’t hard to come by in Brooklyn these days, but Mable’s Smokehouse, which just opened on North 11th and Berry in the Greenpoint/North Williamsburg area, is offering something unique in the way of experience and style that doesn’t take itself too seriously.  Offering up excellent sandwiches and platters, with an exceptional array of sides and desserts, you can get down to Waylon Jennings music while chatting it up at with your friends at one of their long wood-planked communal tables or sit up at the comfortable wooden bar while an old western plays silently on the television for some extra country vibes.
Owners Jeff Lutonsky and Meghan Love have achieved that balance between casual comfort food in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere with a modern, cool edge.   In classic Williamsburg fashion, they scored a huge raw warehouse that used to be an old tonic water factory and with clearly a creative eye and good sense of space, they have crafted this raw spot into a warm and comfortable destination that combines an urban sense of style and old-fashioned country comfort.  With a desire to preserve his grandmother, Mable’s, recipes, Lutonsky has carefully crafted the menu to reflect home-style Oklahoma cuisine.  With a nod to the rustic urban beauty of roughed –up exposed brick and the clean lines of a cool warehouse space, Mable’s is a great spot for a hearty weeknight meal or perfect for meeting a large group of friends.
Offering  both sandwiches and platters featuring pulled pork, brisket, ribs, Schwab’s Oklahoma hot links, and even an out of this world vegetarian sloppy joe,  Mable’s has really done it.  The prices are on the low end with a hefty sandwich, condiments, and choice of one side running ten bucks.  They also have a late night bar menu that features some real down-home comfort with Frito pie and Velveeta Ro-tel dip as well as pulled pork and brisket tamales.  Vegetarians, have no fear!  The veggie sloppy joe is truly fantastic and there are numerous sides for you to choose from.  Stop in for a Coors banquet beer and introduce yourself to your new favorite Williamsburg spot.

Mable’s Smokehouse
44 Berry Street (entrance on North 11th)
Williamsburg, Brooklyn  (718) 218-6655
mablessmokehouse.com

'Chocolate by the Bald Man' and a Good Omelette

Max Brenner in NYC

Yesterday, I met a friend who was passing through the city for work at Max Brenner off of Union Square to say hello and catch a cup of coffee and some breakfast before me moved on with our own day's agendas.  I often pass by and wonder what the story is with a place whose subtitle is "Chocolate by the Bald Man" and it seemed it could be a great spot to meet a fellow adventurous foodie friend.  The fragrance of chocolate rolls out of the heavy wooden doors to the passers-by and the window displays are quirky.  Those things are enough to pique my curiosity but for some reason I had never gone in to check it out until yesterday.

A simple bowl of granola.

We walked in and were immediately enveloped in an invisible chocolate-scented cloud. Whoa.  We walked past big barrels of dark, milk, and white chocolate being mixed with a paddle.  There were brown pipes along the ceilings and walls and we wondered if there was actually chocolate flowing through them.  Probably not, but the effect was pure delight.  I commented at a point that I felt like I was in Willy Wonka's chocolate factory.  Everyone was friendly and the pastry case was filled with everything from chocolate and roasted marshmallow dessert pizzas to big plastic syringes filled with their own house-made chocolate ganache made to be injected directly into a choco-holic's mouth (only $3.95, by the way!)  There were cookbooks, souvenirs, and assorted chocolate novelties, as well as serious and straightforward chocolate wares.

A light breakfast complete with chocolate

The novelty was entertaining but, both of us ended up ordering more practical fare, a spinach and goat cheese omelette for me, a bowl of fruit, granola, and yogurt for my friend.  When the food arrived, alas, there was a well-sugared biscuit with a bowl of chocolate dipping ganache next to my omelette.  The granola was placed before my friend in a huge stemmed chalice-type thing, complete with shaved chocolate all over the top and accompanied by a sugared biscotti.  This place was a crack-up! 
The food turned out to be pretty good, not the best I've ever had, but totally passable and the coffee was good.  Prices were very reasonable.  The place is definitely a novelty in which groups would have fun and it would be great for entertaining friends and family who are visiting from out of town.  This chocolate fantasy was definitely a perk in my quiet January week.  There are also locations in Las Vegas and Philly if you are interested in checking those out. 

Spinach and Chevre Omelette a la Max Brenner

What is unique about this omelette is that the eggs and chopped spinach were incorporated together and filled with creamy, delicious chevre (as opposed to the spinach as part of the filling and plain eggs.). I thought it was a nice variation.  Here is how they did it if you are interested in trying it out!

2 large eggs
1 cup minced spinach leaves
salt and pepper to taste
2 T butter
3 T chevre

Whisk together the eggs, minced spinach, and salt and pepper.    Heat the butter in a non-stick pan and swirl pan to cover the bottom of the pan.  Pour egg mixture into pan and turn heat to medium-low. When egg is about halfway cooked, dot the chevre in the middle and fold the egg over.  Cover and cook 2-4 minutes, until eggs are cooked through and chevre is melty. 

(opt.) Serve with chocolate sauce and a biscuit for dipping...

Some Cuisine of the Catskills

"If I sit on the hearth by the fire and stare at them, maybe they will give me some attention."

 It's been a cold and snowy 2011 so far and I've already been wanting a much-needed vacation or maybe just a break from the snowy, snowy city. Last weekend, we had the pleasure of being invited to our friends' ski chalet in the Catskill mountains.  We drove the 2 1/2 hour trip during the second snowstorm of the new year knowing that once we arrived, it could snow all weekend and we wouldn't mind a bit.  We were about to spend the weekend with great friends, great food, frosty air, and open sky. 

Just some of  Sweet Sue's pancake menu

The chalet is adorable and comfortable, has a cozy fireplace, and even has an outdoor hot tub perfect for frigid snowy nights.  We enjoyed it almost as much as we enjoyed the company of the good friends we sat in it with (and their adorable dog, too, but he wasn't allowed in the hot tub).  It was a welcome three-day procrastination from getting back to the grind in NYC and gearing up for regular life again now that the holidays are over.  We ate and drank well the entire weekend, by both combining efforts at the chalet and hitting a few favorite local haunts that we love to visit when we are up that way.  Both restaurants can be found in a nearby town, Phoenicia, NY, a quaint and tiny town nestled in the mountains full of cute and hip spots and colorful locals.

One spot we love is a quirky combo of a place called The Sportsman's Alamo on one side (great California-style Mexican) and Brio's (homemade, fresh Italian) on the other side.  They are two restaurants that share a kitchen and allow you to order off either menu regardless of which side you have chosen to dine.  Friday night after we arrived and unpacked, we headed straight there.  My husband, Will, got his favorite menu item, which is incidentally the only thing he has ever gotten there.  His pepperoni, onion, and green pepper calzone with fresh mozzarella and ricotta is the only thing he even considers when coming. I enjoyed my chipotle shrimp with a huge serving of fresh sauteed spinach as much as I did the the Chilean Cabernet.  I was so immersed in my great meal, I can't tell you what our hosts got.  Probably something delicious. 

For our favorite Catskills breakfast spot we hit up Sweet Sue's Saturday morning, which has the most diverse and incredible pancake menu this side of the Hudson, as well as great coffee, outstanding house-baked breads and muffins, and just exceptional all-around brunch food. At our table, we had the biggest 1" thick pancakes I've ever seen.  They never cease to amaze me.  One order of blueberry and one order of chocolate chip for the boys.  Two Greek omelettes for the girls and assorted sausage--handmade turkey sausage (the size of a hamburger!), classic beef/pork, and veggie sausage, as well.  Bottomless cups of coffee rounded things out and we had to roll ourselves to the car.

The Porn Horns kicking back ready for another eating session.

Our hostess made two incredible lasagnas that night with a beautiful salad and we had flourless chocolate cake for dessert. On Sunday morning, she whipped up some lovely broccoli quiches without flinching, despite the fact that we were up late boozing in the hot tub.  We ate assorted appetizers the entire time including quinoa tabouli with whole wheat flatbread, spinach artichoke dip (you know the one), local Hudson Valley tomato-basil cheddar cheese, the hostess' own marinated antipasti, semolina bread with olive oil and balsamic, and plenty of wine.  I won't tell how much. Yep, we know how to do it.  Now for that New Year's scale-back on the gooey food and gluttony.

The chalet kitchen was up and running the whole time.

Below is my favorite part of our huge appetizer spread.  It was simple and delicious and my part-Italian hostess demonstrated delicious Italian simplicity by her choices of antipasti and pepper-marinating.  It is the way to go for a light and delicious appetizer selection.  

Hostess Antipasti Platter

1 6 oz jar roasted red peppers

1 clove garlic, finely minced

dash of dried oregano

dash of sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1 T+1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup oil-cured black olives

1 loaf really fresh Italian bread

1 t balsamic vinegar

Italian or Italian-inspired cheese (such as above mentioned 'Hudson valley-made tomato basil cheddar')

Drain the peppers and slice into thin strips or rings and transfer to a small bowl.  Add minced garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of good olive oil.  Toss together and let marinate.  Refrigerate if you are making this well in advance (and you should!  It gets better the longer it marinates.)

When you are getting ready to serve, warm the bread in a hot oven and set up the platter.  Combine the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil with the balsamic and a pinch of salt and pepper and put in a tiny dipping bowl.  Slice cheese into 1/4" thick squares or triangles, whatever makes sense for the cheese.  

Arrange cheese, olives, oil, sliced bread, and marinated roasted peppers on a platter.  It is simple to do and marvelous to taste. 

Nantucket-style Smoked Bluefish Pate

My Perfect Summer Appetizer

Well, the dog days of summer are upon us.  As usual, I don't feel like I have accomplished as much as I would like, nor do I feel like I have done all the summer-y fun activities that I had dreamed of for all those long, cold months.  It has been a fun one and a very busy one, too!  Since June, I have made it to Los Angeles, Atlantic City, the Ozark mountains/Tablerock Lake in Missouri, and spent a week on Cape Cod.  Not too shabby, I know. As far as local fun goes,  I have sunbathed on Rockaway Beach, picnic-ed in McCarren Park many times,  tinkered at flea markets, and eaten my way through farmer's markets.   On Thursday, I will have my annual trek to Coney Island.  We have a wedding in the Hudson Valley the following weekend, then Poof!  Summer will be over in the blink of an eye.

Summer Relaxation!

 It has been a season of relaxing, organizing, and regrouping a bit from a very busy few months previous.  In a few weeks I might just start getting bored so maybe the promise of fall isn't necessarily a bad thing.  I'm gathering my wits and brainstorming new menus...but not too much yet, don't worry.  I have a week and a half left of this glorious season and intend to enjoy it.

The family fishermen at work

Last week during our annual week on Cape Cod, the fishermen in our family caught some bluefish on their chartered fishing trip.  I long ago lost interest in trying to make those little buggers palatable with just basic ingredients and a grill, but they brought a few home anyway.  Luckily, a friend of the family offered to fix them up by smoking the fillets in a backyard smoker.  Thank goodness for that!  As far as I am concerned smoked bluefish is the one and only way to eat them.  Here is my recipe for smoked bluefish pate.  It's a Nantucket tradition and everyone has a slightly different variation. Here is mine--simple and elegant.  It doesn't need many ingredients because the oily, rich fish and smoky fragrance stand tall all on their own!

Nantucket-style Smoked Bluefish Pate

If you don't have freshly smoked bluefish available, you could substitute a hearty wood-smoked salmon (the cooked kind, not lox)

1 smoked bluefish, crumbled and carefully picked through for bones, scales, and skin
3 T capers
1 small clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup chopped onion
1 T flavorful mustard (Dijon, Swedish, or grainy)
1/3 cup mayonnaise

In a food processor, combine fish, capers, garlic, and onion.  Pulse until uniform and large chunks have broken down.  Add mustard and mayo to bring it together.  Taste for seasoning.

Spread on a baguette slices with coarsely ground black pepper and maybe some cucumber matchsticks.  Enjoy this hearty New England summer flavor!

Branson, Missouri, Part Two

While the southern midwest does often tend towards chain restaurants and processed/pre-packaged foods, even in the Ozarks, there are some favorite local dishes and ingredients that we enjoyed on our visit that are noteworthy.  Freshly caught, local trout, local catfish, and barbeque in it's many forms can be enjoyed and savored here.  Sorghum, a molasses-type, mineral-rich syrup is a popular local ingredient that reminds me of my childhood is popular in the Ozarks and is found in all the stores and even at the Wal-Mart in Branson.  I have never seen it anywhere else, so I definitely bought a large tin.  Stay tuned for a posting that features what I come up with for that! 

There were two meals that made an impression on me during our stay.  Funny, I ended up getting the trout at both places--I guess that's how the cookie crumbles when you don't eat meat and try to eat local in the Ozarks.  Thankfully, both meals were delicious.

Hold on to your seat when I say this...The first of the two trout dinners was at Andy Williams Moon River Grill found next to the Moon River Theater on the main drag in Branson.  We had tickets to see Paul Revere and the Raiders opening with The Comets (the surviving ones at least) and decided to eat at the adjacent restaurant beforehand (reservations at 5--early bird country!).  The Comets were adorable, still played great music, and impressed us with their 76 year old lead singer, and 86 year old drummer.  Paul Revere and the Raiders?  There was more slapstick humor and really corny jokes than there was music and the show was geared for the 70+ set.  Well, at least it ended early...Dinner before was good, though.  The salads were fresh, the drinks were decent, and my Pecan-encrusted Trout served with Maple Sherry Butter Sauce was outrageous.  A simple crust and pan-searing turned an otherwise bland, woodsy fish into a gourmet, but still un-pretentious treat.  Hearty and flavorful, the trout is something I would order if I ever found myself here again.  We also stuck around near the booth where Andy sits, in the hopes that we might see him but no such luck.  We had to leave for the show before he came in.

The next memorable trout was served to me at Devil's Pool Restaurant at Big Cedar Resort.  This place was a lesson in local ambiance.  It was a taxidermists dream with stuffed 'possum, birds, mooseheads, deerheads, maybe a mongoose or an armadillo here or there, all perched amidst the log beams, fireplace, and long plank tables.  The stuffed carcasses were not my favorite part, but at least none were looking at me while I ate.  The trout, on the other hand, was maybe a rainbow trout.  It's flesh was a bit pinker in color than the previous night's, but also very fresh.  The preparation was simple.  Pan-seared and finished in Lemon-Thyme Butter and accompanied by a shaved asparagus and snap pea salad, which was just as delightful as the trout--thinly shaved and barely sauteed, though I suspect use of margarine here...I guess they haven't heard....It was another winning trout meal.

If you can find fresh trout fillets without bone or skin, I would highly recommend giving it a try.  There is fresh, local trout in many regions of the country so there is most likely some near you if you look for it.  Even better, though, is if you have a fisherman in your midst who can just catch you some.  I am blessed with an in-house fisherman and next catch you can be sure I will pull out my boning knife and cook up some...

Pecan-Encrusted Trout with Sherry Butter Sauce

2 lb fresh trout fillet (boned, skinned, and sliced into 4-6 serving size pieces)

1 cup milk

1 1/2 cups pecans

1/2 cup whole wheat bread crumbs

1 tsp sea salt

1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/2 tsp garlic powder

1 tsp sugar (or sucanat)

5 T unsalted butter

2 t maple syrup (use the real stuff, if you don't have any, then substitute honey!!)

2 t sherry

1/2 t sea salt

quick shirt of freshly squeezed lemon juice

coarsely ground black pepper to taste

4-6 T extra-virgin olive oil or olive oil/butter combo for pan-frying

Rinse fillets in cold water and place in a shallow bowl with milk.  Let sit while you prepare the crust and butter sauce.

In a food processor, combine pecans, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, garlic powder, and sugar or sucanat. Pulse in food processor until mixture in uniform and fine, about 20-30 pulses.  You may need to scrape the sides down once or twice to get it all blended. Transfer the mixture to a large plate or bowl.  Set aside.

Melt butter over medium-low heat in a saucepan.  Whisk in maple syrup and sherry.  Cook 5-7 minutes, lowering heat if it goes above a gentle simmer.  Finish with salt, lemon juice, and coarse black pepper. Turn heat to the lowest setting to keep warm.

Return to the fillets and drain the milk; discard.  Pan fillets dry and roll in pecan crust mixture.  If it is having trouble sticking, you can add some bread crumbs or just press the mixture firmly into the fillet.  Coat them thickly!

In a large frying pan, melt oil/butter for frying and bring it the medium heat.  Cook the fillets about 4 minutes on each side.  Don't move them around (except for flipping) once they are in the pan or the crust will fall off.

Drain for a minute on paper towels, if necessary.  Transfer to a serving plate and drizzle butter sauce over the top. 

Branson, Missouri, Part One

Country-style Candied Jalapenos!

 

It doesn't get much more 'down-home' than Branson, Missouri for a vacation.  In the last few years, my parents have begun to frequent the place for the gorgeous, clean lakes, endless entertainment options, and their proximity to home (only about 5 hours from St. Louis to vacation fun).  I only remember going to Silver Dollar City (the local amusement park) when I was about 3 or 4.  Other than that, I really had no memory or pre-conceived notions of the place before last week.  We had been meaning to plan a trip on my Dad's boat for a few years now and decided the time was now.  What were we waiting for?  It's hot, it's summer, and my yankee husband had never seen a real hillbilly.

Branson is a small town in southern Missouri, only about 30 minutes north of Arkansas in the Ozark Mountains.  The area is packed full of history, including Native American, American pioneer/Americana, and mountain hillbilly lore.  It is close enough to Springfield, Missouri and Fayetteville, Arkansas, among a few others, that it isn't a completely isolated town and was reinvented in about the 1970s as "The Country Music Capital" and "The Next Nashville".  There were theaters and performance spaces, resorts, amusement parks, and lakeside entertainment that popped up everywhere in this tiny town in the mountains.  Many stars from the 1940s through the 1970s who were looking to settle down, built theaters and put together year-round acts.  Some of these include Roy Rogers, Jr., Yakov Smirnoff's Moscow Circus,  The (remaining) Comets, Paul Revere and the Raiders, assorted gospel family acts, animal acts, and, of course (drum roll) Dr. Christmas and the King of Branson himself, Mr. Andy Williams.

The place never made a national splash as expected and the majority of tourists are over age 75 or large families who live relatively close, but the shows, the lake, the food, airport, and resorts are there, so if you are seeking a unique and fun vacation....well....here you go.  I know I was excited.  Head on out (just don't expect your GPS to work)!

Before we knew it last week, we were airborne from Atlanta and flying right into Branson.  They had just opened their own airport and we were going to try it out.  My parents drove from St. Louis and in the proper Barker fashion, timed our airport pick-up to the minute despite their five hour drive.  Exiting the plane, we descended a steaming hot outdoor ramp that led us to the main building.  In between the gap in the ramp and the building's doorway we saw it.  In huge letters on the side of this quaint brown building in the mountains, it read, Welcome to the Ozarks.  This was it!  If ever we were going to experience the opposite of New York City on vacation,  it was right now.  We entered the airport and it was tiny, decorated like a log cabin, and all the chairs at the gates were made of twigs.  Even the cement floors had deer, bear, and fox prints pressed into them. Adorable.

Branson may claim to be "The World's Country Music Capital", but we all know that isn't really true.  The whole ride to the resort we giggled and chuckled at the hilarious show billboards...then proceeded to go out for barbecue.  Then it hit me, I should have fasted before this vacation.  Have I been gone from the midwest so long that I forgot about the food?  When we visit, we are typically in Chicago or St. Louis where the food is comparable to any we might pick up in Brooklyn.  Here there was a lot of barbecue, fried stuff, meat, bread, Miracle Whip, and margarine. 

The first night at Danna's Barbecue and Burger Shop we all ordered sandwiches.  Of course the typical pulled pork and ribs made it to the table, but I got adventurous with the fried catfish sandwich and onion rings.  Whew.  It was delicious, but quite a load to carry home.  The exciting part of Danna's (other than good quality eats, of course) was homemade condiments that they made in-house and also sold in jars to take home.  I special-ordered the candied jalapenos on my catfish sandwich because if I didn't, I would never have forgiven myself.  The were absolutely delicious and just as described--jalapenos, but candied.  Less floppy and darker green than a classic "nacho slice", they were literally candied in sugar, water, and spices (possible just bay leaf).  I should have bought a jar--we came so close but with the first night's excitement, I didn't want to get ahead of myself...shoulda bought them dang jalapenos.  They were canned in a mason jar and shelf stable, but here is a shot at a version to be stored in the fridge.  Trust me. They won't last long.

I did some research and am trying this recipe tomorrow.  It looks just about right and I encourage you to give this a shot, too.  It's looks so easy it's too good to be true!  They will keep in the fridge so no rush on using them up right away.  Use these as garnish, on salads, on burgers and sandwiches, with corn on the cob, cornbread, and as a summer condiment, in general.

Candied Jalapenos

1 1/4 cups sliced jalapenos (about 3 or 4 fresh)

1/2 cup sugar 

1/4 cup water

1 bay leaf
dash of salt
2 T white wine vinegar

Combine all in a saucepan and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and simmer 15-20 minutes.  Remove from heat,  add dash of sea salt, and vinegar.  Let cool a bit, place in a clean jar, and refrigerate. 

Peruvian Cilantro Rice

How great it is to get away for awhile!  We are gearing up for an action-packed and fun summer this year and are getting excited about trips to Branson and Cape Cod among others.

Setting summer fun into motion before it's official start, we took a quick 5 day trip to the Los Angeles area last week to visit my brother and sister-in-law and meet my beautiful new niece, Sophia, but also wanted to just hang out and soak in some of that slower-paced California vibe for a few days.  We managed a few dips in the pool, killer Mexican food, and lots of relaxation.  When we weren't swooning over the new baby, we also managed to hit the Long Beach farmer's market, a classic LA-style swap meet, and a day in West Hollywood with friends.

We ate so much delicious stuff that I just don't see in NYC.  The farmer's market had fat and bursting tamales available in 9 flavors!  At the swap meet, I had crisp and fresh fish tacos from a taco truck and Will and I split Mexican donuts for dessert (one, a cinnamon and sugar combo and the other, a cinnamon and chocolate-glazed bun still warm--mmmm.).  We enjoyed beautiful, fresh, and local cherries, mango, and watermelon and I grabbed a bite of my sister-in-law's churro.  It was AMAZING and had I gotten my own, I would have eaten every bite.

Our last night in town, we went to a place serving up what we believe to be authentic Peruvian eats (not sure, though--never been to Peru.).  We enjoyed the Yuca for an appetizer and it was absolutely divine.  My entree may well be the best thing I have eaten in many, many months.  I had Arroz con Mariscos, which was fresh and tender shrimp, scallop, octopus, and langoustine sauteed and served over the ultimate, most flavorful, and tasty cilantro rice in existence. Seriously.

Other dishes at the table were the house-roasted chicken, which can only be described as lacquered with a salty citrus glaze and was very good,  Talarin Saltado which looked like hibachi tossed with French fries, and fried rice that was very Chinese in influence, but had some Latin notes.

For a first try at a new cuisine, I must admit that I am smitten.  Peruvian cuisine is a diverse fare with Asian, Latin, and American influences with seemingly equal weight.  If we had more time in California, I would have requested more Peruvian. For now, though, the search is on for good Peruvian in NYC.  Any suggestions are welcome, dear readers.

Here is the first try at a recipe for the cilantro rice, which would be perfect for a summertime barbecued fish/meat meal, especially grilled seafood or to accompany a vegetable saute.  Give it a try and fall in love  with this cuisine!

Peruvian Cilantro Rice

1 bunch fresh cilantro, stems removed
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
3 cups broth (chicken is traditional, vegetable works, too)
1/4 cup thinly sliced carrots
1/4 cup frozen peas (optional)
1 tablespoon cumin
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup uncooked white rice


In a food processor or blender, puree cilantro with 1/2 cup water.

Heat oil in a saucepan and cook garlic until lightly browned. Pour in 2 cups of the cooking liquid and stir in the cilantro puree, carrots, peas, cumin and rice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer, then cover; cook on low heat until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes.

Cornmeal Gnocchi

I have never really understood obsession that some people have with pasta.  It's good, but it's rarely so good I crave a repeat.  Honestly, I probably ate a ton of it in college with plain old jarred sauce and just got sick of it,  forgetting how great fresh pasta with a delicate and flavorful sauce can really be.  This being said, I really and truly appreciate fresh, homemade pasta, probably more than the average joe.  I have tried my hand at making pasta a few times and know it isn't foolproof.  Even simple semolina pasta made by hand involves skill, practice, and a handful of luck.

Well, this weekend with my foodie friend, Lori, in town for a visit, we headed to Little Italy on Saturday night.   Along with a few other food-loving girls, we headed to Holly's favorite, Da Nico Ristorante.  They don't take reservations, but we were seated in their huge, sprawling garden within ten minutes.  A beautiful and unique house-made bruschetta-type flatbread came to the table right away.  It was delicious.  It was a round flatbread-type crust that suggested a brick oven in action.  This crisp and flaky crust was topped with ripe, sweet tomato chunks just chopped and tossed with garlic, lemon, and basil.  When your ingredients are this fresh and impeccable, simplicity like this is the way to go!

On such a warm and beautiful night, we ordered a crisp and citrus-y Pinot Grigio and took our time perusing the menu.  The pasta selection was great!  Traditional preparations like pomodoro sauce and Bolognese sauce were offered, as well as creative preparations like spicy vodka sauce with olives and fresh mozzarella, pesto, and various chicken and seafood preparations.  All pastas were made in house.  They also had a vast selection of pizzas and non-pasta entrees/secondo corso as well.  Delectable.

Potato gnocchi is always where I gravitate on an Italian menu if it is offered.  Those chewy little potato dumplings are so addictive and I like them with just about any sauce.  So that is what I ordered--Gnocchi Napolitana.

It arrived and was outrageously delicious.  It may be the most tender, yet flavorful gnocchi I have had.  Very fresh mozzarella was chopped into pieces about the size of the gnocchi and the mixture was gently tossed in a very fresh and delicate tomato sauce and topped with a huge sprig of aromatic basil.

My friends enjoyed the Rigatoni with Olives and Fresh Tomatoes, a special that offered Lobster Chunks in a Spicy Vodka Sauce that was divine, and a classic Spaghetti with Bolognese.  We ate well.  At the end, the waiter brought us a plate of zeppoles on the house (not that we were able to eat much more!).

The service here was great and we felt not a bit rushed, which is a rarity and a huge plus for a busy garden restaurant like this in NYC.  What a great spot!  This is a place to remember for great Italian eats.  A hidden gem!

Now that I am thinking about gnocchi, I will share a gnocchi recipe that I haven't made in ages, but was a huge hit and often-requested dish with my clients a few years back.  I would serve this with a roasted pepper-infused tomato sauce or cilantro butter.  It isn't traditional like what we had on Saturday, but it is a guaranteed hit!

Buon Appetito!

Cornmeal Gnocchi

1 cup cold mashed potatoes

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1/3 cup unbleached white flour

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

1/2 tsp sea salt

In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients together to make a soft dough.  The best way to do this is mashing everything together with clean hands.

Divide the dough into fourths.  On a floured board with floured hands, roll each quarter into a rope 12 inches long.  Slice each rope into 15 pieces.  After slicing, roll the dough between two forks the make some cute ridges, if you like.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the gnocchi.  Cook until the gnocchi float to the top.  Drain and serve with a classic or creative sauce.

The simplest homemade pasta that there is!

Cafe au Lait and Beignets

snowy, snowy Brooklyn

If you are anything like me, you are feeling lucky today. The snow is coming down and lots of things in NYC have been cancelled. I love an impromptu day of nothing. I like to catch up on reading and feel no pressure to hurry up or get to this place or that. Usually on a day like this, I like to do a bit of organizing and often a bit of cooking as I putter around the apartment peering out at the snow coming down.

It's a great day to treat yourself to a comforting cafe au lait with beignets. They take awhile to make, but are pretty straightforward. Start them now and you will have beignets and coffee for your afternoon snack. You probably have all of the ingredients on hand and Fat Tuesday is next week...take advantage of the extra time today and enjoy being snowed in. If you are a Saints fan, you could make these in honor of the Superbowl win. In general, New Orleans-y food seems fitting right about now. You won't have the whole experience of sitting at Cafe du Monde on a sweltering day with marching band sounds playing in the background, but you can turn the heat up and throw on some music, if you are so inclined. You won't regret that first steamy bite of a classic Cafe du Monde-style beignet!

Here is a scratch recipe for beignets. According to the author at NolaCuisine.com, it beats the Cafe du Monde mix by a lot. I believe him. Let's try it, shall we?

New Orleans Style Beignet Recipe
**These take awhile, so start them well ahead of time.**
Makes about 2 dozen

1 Envelope Active Dry Yeast
3/4 Cup Water (110 degrees F)
1/4 Cup Granulated Sugar
1/2 tsp Salt
1 Beaten Egg
1/2 Cup Evaporated Milk
3 1/2 – 3 3/4 Cups A.P. Flour
1/8 Cup Shortening
Vegetable Oil for Frying
Powdered Sugar in a shaker or sifter

Combine the Yeast, Water, and Sugar in the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook (You could also make this in a food processor, or the old fashioned way, by hand). Let this sit until frothy, about 5 minutes, then add the Salt, Egg, and Evaporated Milk.

Mix on low speed, then add half of the flour until it starts to come together, then add the shortening. When the shortening is incorporated start adding the remaining flour, a little at a time until most of it is incorporated. At this time I always turn the dough onto a floured bench to finish by hand, just like when I make bread; it’s a touch thing. Knead the dough adding just enough flour as necessary to make a non-sticky, smooth dough.

Place the dough into a large oiled bowl, loosely cover and let rise. After the dough has doubled in bulk, punch it down and turn it onto a floured surface and roll out into a rectangle that is about 1/2″ thick. With a very sharp knife working at a diagonal to the rectangle, cut into 2″ wide strips. Now cut into diamond shapes by making diagonal cuts in the opposite direction. Place the Beignets on a floured baking sheet to let rise about 40 minutes in a warm place (I place them in a barely warm oven).

When the Beignets have risen, heat 2-3 inches of vegetable oil in a large saucepan to 350-360 degrees. Place 2-3 Beignets into the hot oil at a time, being careful not to smash or deflate them. When they are golden brown, flip them over until golden brown on the other side (They go pretty quickly so start checking them right after they go into the oil). Remove to paper towel lined plates to drain. Serve hot topped with plenty of powdered sugar (because the dough doesn’t contain much sugar, you will want a lot!). Best served with Cafe au Lait. Enjoy!


Cafe au lait: In French, it means coffee with milk. In New Orleans, it means strong chicory-infused coffee mixed 50/50 with scalded milk and served in a wide bowl-type mug.

The easiest way to do this is brew Cafe du Monde coffee, which is readily available in supermarkets, not just in New Orleans anymore. If you don't have any at home and they don't have any at the corner deli, just brew a nice, strong pot of coffee. Pour some milk (*or soy milk or almond milk) into a small pot and scald it, which means almost bring to a boil or bring just under a boil. If you are a perfectionist, this means 170 degrees F, but I never check. Then pour the milk and the chicory coffee together in a wide mug.

*If you use milk alternatives, be sure to pour it through a fine sieve on it's way into the mug, because soy milk/rice milk/almond milk-type things tend to curdle when heated--it's perfectly fine, just strain it.


Bon Appetit, Mon Cher!

Tagine Cookery

Looking for a yummy break from takeout and holiday shopping mayhem this week? Hit the spice store on your way home and make a tagine for dinner.

A tagine is a Moroccan/North African dish and also the traditional Moroccan cooking vessel that it is cooked in. Also used in other North African and Turkish cookery, a tagine can be rice, couscous, lentil, vegetable, or meat based and simmered with dried fruit, spices, and nuts. There are many Moroccan and Turkish cookware websites featuring cooking tagines. There are also lots of common stores that carry them. Stores like TJMaxx and Marshall's often carry them at fantastic discounts and top brands such as Le Creuset are making tagines now, too.

Most likely, you can find one at a good price. Here are some links if you feel like browsing. Some of these are so gorgeous! I have also included some spice store links in case you have a hard time finding spices or get inspired and need something exotic. You will probably find the spices for the recipe below in your regular grocery store.

Tagines, Recipes, and Resources:
http://www.tagines.com/
http://www.zamourispices.com/tagines
http://www.africantreasures.com/tagines/default.asp?gclid=CIf4xs2Yw54CFQk75QodY3Nunw
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/search/search.aspx/tagine/?order_num=-1&sstr=tagine&dim=1&nty=1&


Spices:
(In New York, also mail order) --two of my favorite stores!
http://www.kalustyans.com/
http://www.spicecorner29.com/
(In Chicago, also mail order)--never been here, but it looks great! Any feedback, Chicagoans?
http://www.thespicehouse.com/
(In St. Louis, also mail order)--never been here either, Thoughts and feedback welcome!
http://www.myilaaka.com/business.jsp

I got nothing for LA or San Fran--if any of you Californians know anything, please post it!


The difference between cooking with a tagine and cooking in a regular Dutch oven or casserole is the conical shape of the lid. As the dish heats, the hot air circulates within, blending the flavors and simmering all of together to create delectable and complex results. (Almost an early version of the CrockPot...just in a clay vessel... over a fire.) Most tagines can also be cooked over medium heat on the stove, covered, and then transferred to the oven. Even the terra cotta or clay styles are usually tempered for various uses. Check your instructions first. You may have to soak or "season" in the oven before the first use.

If you are not up for the investment, but want to do the recipe, it will work fine in a Dutch oven or covered casserole. You may have to cook it a bit longer and/or stir it once for even cooking.

If you decide to tagine along with me, I hope you find it brings you lots of joy. An excellent buy if you like to entertain, they look fab as serving dishes too!

Here is a rice tagine I made tonight for dinner after dealing with shopping crowds at Herald Square. I just threw everything in and waited for the timer to ding. I combined a few different tagine recipe into one and got this. I served it with Coriander-Lemon marinated Chicken and Flounder Fillets. If you want to, you could actually put meat or fish right into the uncooked rice and liquid just before it goes in the oven. You want authentic? That's authentic!

Spiced Brown Rice Tagine
Digging around my spice shelf, I came across some Utah Basin semi-coarse salt with fragrant spices, so I used that. C'est Magnifique!

1 cup chopped onion
4 T extra virgin olive oil
2 t sea salt
1 t turmeric
2 t garam masala
2 t ground coriander
2 t sweet paprika
1/2 t ground cumin
3/4 cup brown basmati rice
1/2 cup chopped raw cashews
1 cup frozen peas (frozen or thawed)
1/2 cup dried currants

1 1/2 cups water
2 T sweet paprika pepper puree (found in a tube in Mediterranean stores) or use 2 T paprika
1 bay leaf

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint



Preheat your oven to 375 degrees.

Cook onion on low heat with olive oil salt, turmeric, garam masala, coriander, paprika, and cumin for 15 minutes, or until onion is translucent and spices are becoming fragrant.

Add rice, cashews, peas, and currants and stir until evenly distributed. Cook three minutes.

Add water and pepper puree or paprika, and bay leaf and bring to a bold simmer. Add cilantro and mint.

Cover and bake in the oven for about 50-60 minutes, until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender.
You should check it at 30 or 40 minutes to see if water is absorbed. If it looks dry and rice is still hard, add another 1/2 cup or so of water.

Serve with meat or veggies. I like serving with a bunch of crushed red pepper or harissa.

A VISIT TO DAN BARBER'S BLUE HILL FARM!

One of my favorite excursions this summer was the trip I took to Blue Hill Farm at Stone Barn Center near Tarrytown, NY with my friend, Deborah (one of the authors of "Grapes and Greens" food and wine blog) and her friend, Ilene. It's only about an hour north of New York City, but feels miles from the skyscrapers, noise, and traffic.

We had a blast spending the day poking around the huge, beautiful kitchen garden outside the restaurant near the outdoor dining space and strolling through the fields of organic, heirloom, and varietal produce. There were adorable hand-painted signs at the end of some rows and some of the most beautiful grape vines I have ever seen. There were rows upon rows of culinary crops in the field, being carefully tended by the friendly farm-hands. There were kitchen staff and prep cooks in white coats out picking what they needed to prep for that evening's dinner service. We even saw the famous owner and chef, Dan Barber, ride by on a cart wearing his white kitchen coat with his arms full of vegetables. Yes, this is a hands-on operation. When they say "farm-to-table", this place isn't joking.

Touring this working farm doesn't just involve some rows of veggies and greenhouses. They have heirloom variety pigs that were so cute I couldn't stand it. The pens had tons of space for the happy piggies to wallow and trot around. We saw a big family of piglets that frollicked like kittens, while their big waddling mama stared us down and chased them.

The farm also had goats, sheep, and a ton of gorgeous rust-brown heritage chickens! (Did I just call the chickens gorgeous?)

Unfortunately, we missed the farmer's market, which does not take place on Thursdays. We were a little disappointed, but the day was fantastic nonetheless.

If you are in the area and want to visit the farm, I would highly recommend it! If farming isn't your thing, but you enjoy fine foods, there are two Blue Hill restaurants that serve up beautiful, delicious, and, of course, seasonal nouveau American dishes. There is the location on the actual farm near Tarrytown and there is also one in Greenwich Village in New York City.

This farm to table stuff isn't just for hippies either--not even close. This is delicious, gourmet stuff. When I dined at the one in NYC, we sat next to Tyra Banks and just two weeks later President and Mrs. Obama went there on their New York City date night. Way to go Obama's (and you too, Tyra) for setting an example and helping improve our food system!

http://www.stonebarnscenter.org/
http://www.bluehillfarm.com/food/blue-hill-stone-barns

In honor of the excellent bruschetta lunch we had at the cafe, here is a similar recipe. Of course, they also used the sweetest baby zucchini, fresh off of the vine and chevre made on premises from their own goats, but do your best. I found greenmarket tomatoes and basil and used Trader Joe's chevre and baguette.

Red Tomato and Yellow Pepper Bruschetta with Chevre

extra-virgin olive oil (use your favorite fruity one!)
1 very large or 2 medium ripe summer tomatoes, diced very small
1 t minced garlic
1/2 cup yellow bell pepper, sliced thinly into 1" matchsticks
sea salt and black pepper

1 fresh multi-grain baguette
about 3 oz chevre (herbed or plain--I like herbed in this recipe)
1/2 c fresh basil leaves, washed and dried and cut into a chiffonade (stack the leaves, roll, and cut into very thin shreds)


In a saute pan, heat about 3 Tbsp olive oil until warm. Add tomatoes, garlic, and yellow pepper. Cook about 10 minutes, stirring a few times. Season to taste with sea salt and black pepper.

Place a wire strainer over a bowl and transfer tomato mixture. Drain here until you are ready to top the bread.

Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Cut baguette in half the long way, as if you were making a big sandwich.

With the whole thing still together, cut into approximately 3" pieces. You should get 12-14 similar pieces. Distribute them, open side up, on baking sheet.

Pour a bit of olive oil in a small bowl. Brush tops and bottoms of each piece of bread with a little olive oil and place back on sheet with cut side up. Bake 10 minutes, or until they just barely begin to toast. Watch them closely and remove them as soon as they are ready.

With a spoon, evenly distribute tomato-pepper mixture over the top of each piece and try to spread it out. Dot each piece with 2 or 3 half teaspoonsful of chevre.

Bake for another 10-12 minutes, or until the edges are toasting a little and chevre feels a little melty, if you touch it.

Remove from oven and top each piece with about 1 Tbsp of basil chiffonade. Bon Appetit!

Cape Cod Cuisine

Back from Cape Cod after a hot and humid (thanks, Hurricane Bill), but delicious trip! This year, we all took a side trip to Martha's Vineyard for the day to see the sights, ride the school bus around, and, you guessed it, eat! In fact, as we got off the Island Queen ferry in Oak Bluffs, we headed straight to Fish Bones Grille. There I ate the best damned crab cakes I've had in ages. I'm sure there were some fresh bread crumbs in there somewhere, but the bulk of each patty was tender and delicious crab meat. They were seasoned simply and presented with just some fresh parsley and a spicy mayo coulis. Yum! I'm still thinking about them a week later! The next day, the fishing enthusiasts of the group went out and caught some serious striped bass, as well as bringing back a few bluefish. We grilled the striper with an asian marinade, and also diced some of it into a fresh striped bass ceviche with lime, green pepper, cilantro, and olive oil. The bluefish was just grilled with some garlic, lemon, and tomato. What a fresh dinner!

Of course, we ate cups of clam chowda at every turn and this year they all passed Will's spoon test (when placed on top of the chowder, if the spoon sinks, it isn't thick enough, if it floats,it is a satisfactory thickness). Captain Parker's is still the best, but I believe that Land Ho is a close second. We didn't make it to The Yardarm this year, but they make a good one, too.

Well, after five days of sun, sand, and seafood, we are settled back in Brooklyn and I am still thinking about that delicious, New England-style oceanside cuisine. As a midwesterner, I had never even heard of Quahogs (ko-hogs for the non-New Englanders) until Will took me to the Cape in 2002. Now bluefish, cranberries, Old Bay seasoning, and beach plums are part of my repertoire. Over the last few years, I have grown to love and appreciate Cape Cod food culture. Here are some recipes celebrating my favorite flavors of this fresh, simple, and all-American cuisine.

Cape Cod Crab Cakes
simple and classic
If you plan on making the Chipotle Cocktail Sauce recipe below, it's best to do it first or make it ahead of time so flavors can marry.

1 lb fresh crabmeat
1 T freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/3 c mayonnaise
1 T dijon mustard
1 T worcestershire sauce
1 T Old Bay seasoning
Sea salt and Black Pepper
2/3 c fresh bread crumbs (or about 1/2 cup dry)
expeller-pressed canola oil for pan-frying

Drain the crabmeat and sort through it for shell and debris.

In a mixing bowl, gently combine crabmeat, lemon juice, mayo, dijon, worcestershire, and Old Bay seasoning with a fork, season with sea salt and a generous of amount of black pepper. Fold in bread crumbs until mixture holds together.

Form into 2" x 3/4" rounds, place on a plate, and chill until ready to finish (up to 12 hours)

In a cast iron frying pan, coat the bottom with canola oil and heat until oil becomes quick.

Over medium-high heat, cook cakes in batches, about 4 minutes on each side, or until nicely browned, adding oil as needed. Serve with classic cocktail sauce or my chipotle cocktail sauce (below) and fresh lemon wedges.


CHIPOTLE COCKTAIL SAUCE

1/2 cup natural ketchup (I always avoid the corn syrup stuff)
1/2 cup freshly diced tomato (diced very small)
2 T prepared horseradish
1/2 t worcestershire sauce
1 T freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 T adobo sauce (from canned chipotles) or 1 T chipotle powder
hot sauce to taste


Whisk together and let rest 30 minutes before serving.

Cajun-Style Grilled Bluefish

This can also be done in the oven in a regular pan, if necessary. Also, if you don't have access to really fresh bluefish, try this with some wild salmon instead.

Bluefish is a hefty and sort of strong-flavored fish with an oily texture, not unlike salmon. It falls apart easily and I like it best smoked and blended into pate, but if you are like me and don't have a smoker, this is a great way to use it when it's right out of the water.


2 lb really fresh bluefish fillets
a few splashes of extra-virgin olive oil
coarse sea salt
3-4 T cajun seasoning
freshly ground black pepper
2 lemons
1-2 large yellow and red tomatoes


Preheat grill to high or 425, depending on type of grill you are using. If you are baking fish in an oven indoors, preheat to 425 degrees.

Wash and pat dry the bluefish fillets. Prepare a grill-safe pan by tossing a splash of olive oil in it and coating the bottom. If you don't have one, use a disposable aluminum pan or make an aluminium foil pan with 3 layers of foil, crimped around the sides to create 2-3" sides. You just want to be able to lay fillets in a single layer with out losing the seasonings, veggies, and juices.

Rub fillets lightly with olive oil and some sea salt. Generously sprinkle fillets with cajun seasoning, black pepper, and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Place in a single layer with the skin-side down in prepared pan.

Thinly slice tomatoes. Sprinkle with cajun seasoning, pepper, lemon, and a bit of olive oil.
Place thin tomato slices over fillets, overlapping like scales, and alternating yellow and red, if you are using both colors of tomato.

Place pan on grill (or in oven) and cook on high for 12 minutes or so. You want the fish to be just cooked, while the tomatoes brown a tiny bit.

Serve with grilled veggies, corn on the cob, and a salad.




Roasted Corn Salad
A great summer side dish or first course to accompany the bluefish or crab cakes!

6 ears corn, husked
2 T + ¼ c extra-virgin olive oil
¼ + ½ c fresh orange juice
2 T + 1/3 c white wine vinegar
Sea salt
Black pepper
1 t + 1 t orange zest

1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 c grape tomatoes, halved
2 scallions, minced
½ t minced or grated garlic

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Line up ears of corn on a baking sheet. In a bowl, whisk together 2 T oil, ¼ c orange juice, 2 T white wine vinegar, sea salt, black pepper, and 1 t orange zest.

Rub mixture generously over corn. Roast, uncovered, about 30-40 minutes, turning once.
Roast until corn in tender and beginning to caramelize. Remove from oven and let cool a
bit.

When cool, slice off kernels and transfer to a bowl. Add remaining ingredients, toss
together, and chill.

VARIATION: Add 1 lb small/medium, cooked shrimp at the end, toss together and chill. Serve
over greens.