Baked Autumn Cassoulet

Voila! Autumn Cassoulet!

A cassoulet is a typical French stew traditionally made with sausage, flageolet beans, and bouquet garni. It is delicious, hearty and warming, but not always accessible. Flageolet beans can be hard to find and some people don't go for greasy sausage or sausage at all. I have a favorite vegan version of a cassoulet where I have replaced the butter with olive oil added veggies, and tried to duplicate the sausage's essence without actually adding sausage (or sometimes worse,  vegetarian soy sausage). As with most vegetarian versions of things, I usually try to modify seasoning and texture of a dish to come close to it's meaty counterpart without adding the processed stuff. I'm not ripping up all veggie meats. Some are healthy and tasty and definitely have their time and place. For something with so many great ingredients, though, there really is no reason to use it here.

In garden season, I like to take these really simple ingredients and stew them together slowly all afternoon. Then I pop them in the oven about 30 minutes before dinner and have a great French (inspired) meal. Since it is no longer the season for these veggies to be at their peak, but the winter squashes are pouring in all over, I thought I would incorporate a diced butternut squash into the mix and modify the seasonings a teeny tiny bit to give my autumn cassoulet a hint of spice to showcase the squash. If you think you will miss having sausage in it, add some chicken and apple sausage with chardonnay or some such thing. . .I have used the one just mentioned, but can't remember the brand. Aidell's? Al Fresco? Find a sweet and sage-y autumnal variety, brown it, slice it, and pop it in to stew.

Cook it all slowly till the flavors come together.

Autumn Cassoulet

1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup diced shallots
1 cup sliced celery with tops
1 t finely minced garlic
1 cup diced green pepper
1 small butternut squash, peeled and diced (about 2 1/2 cups)
2 bay leaves
1/2 t dried sage
1/2 t dried thyme
1/2 t dried rosemary
1/4 t ground nutmeg
1/4 t smoked paprika
1/4-1/2 t sea salt
2 cups diced tomatoes
1 can crushed tomatoes
3 cups cooked flageolet beans or navy beans (or approx 2 cans, rinsed)


Warm oil in a cassoulet pan (or medium pot). Add shallots, celery, garlic, pepper, and squash. Cook over medium until everything begins to get fragrant. If you are using sausage, slice it up and throw it in now and let it brown before you continue.

Add herbs, spices (omit smoked paprika if using sausage),  sea salt, and pepper. Cook 3-4 minutes, then add fresh and canned tomatoes. Stir to incorporate everything and add drained beans. Stir again and bring the heat up to a rapid simmer/almost a boil to get it hot, then lower to medium-low and set it on the back burner for an hour or so. If you would like to let it go longer, check it for liquid and add a little water or stock (you should maybe do this anyway so it doesn't dry out. Preheat the oven to 350F.

Taste for seasoning after you are happy with it and pop it in the oven for 20-30 minutes. This part is optional, but I think it really adds something to the finished product.

Serve as an entree with crusty baguette or as a veggie side.**

**a great potluck dish!
**freezes well

Summer Vegetable Lasagna

Spelt lasagna noodles and roasted tomatoes ready to go!

Wondering what to do with a bumper crop of zucchini and tomatoes? Try this improvised version of a classic favorite. I am using whole spelt noodles (from VitaSpelt) to keep it really healthy and nutritious. Thinly slice the veggies you have, broil them, and layer them with the cooked pasta and whole cheese from pastured cows.  Rather than sticking to just my suggestions, use any summer vegetables that tempt you--  artichokes, spinach, chard (the leafy stuff you can saute, not roast, of course), carrots, parsnips, onions, whatever is in season and abundant near you will go just fine.

Instead of a heavy, slow-cooked tomato sauce,  roasted Roma tomatoes will keep this lasagna summery and fresh. For cheese, a classic combo of ricotta and mozzarella is always welcome, but don't be afraid of substituting chevre in the middle or provolone on top. Maybe there is fresh farmer cheese at the greenmarket. Maybe there is something else that strikes your fancy--sun-dried tomatoes, olives, or roasted peppers? Follow this basic formula, whichever you choose. Serve it with some simply dressed greens

Try using a few varieties of summer squash

Summer Vegetable Lasagna

3-3 1/2 lb Roma tomatoes
4 T+   extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp garlic, minced
sea and freshly ground black pepper
1 pkg spelt lasagna noodles
2 lb assorted zucchini and summer squash
10-15 leaves fresh basil, washed
1 15 oz container pasture-raised ricotta
3 cups shredded provolone cheese


Preheat oven to broil. Put a big pot of lightly salted water on the stove to boil. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil to prevent a nasty clean-up.

Slice the tomatoes into 1/3" thick slices and transfer them to the lined sheet pan. Add a tsp of the minced garlic and about 2 Tbsp olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and gently rub tomatoes with seasonings with clean hands until evenly distributed. Place under the broiler for about 20 minutes, until lightly browned.

Transfer tomatoes to a mixing bowl. Thinly slice summer squash the long way (1/4"-1/3" thick slices?).  Transfer to the pan that the tomatoes were in and season with the remaining oil and garlic, as well as sea salt and pepper. Broil these for 15-20 minutes, or until tender.  Let cool and switch oven to 350 F.

Cook pasta according to directions. While pasta cooks, prepare a 9"x13" lasagna pan. Lightly oil with extra-virgin olive oil.

Layer lasagna in baking dish beginning with a layer of tomatoes and basil leaves, then pasta, then summer squash, pasta, ricotta. Repeat pasta and veggies. Be sure to layer the tomatoes on thick in the middle, so lasagna is saucy and fresh at the same time.  Discard excess tomato juice in bowl (or use it in minestrone) Finish with some tomatoes, then top with shredded provolone.

Bake covered at 350 for 20 minutes, then uncover and bake for 10-15 minutes more.
Let rest 5 minutes and serve.

Fried Green Tomatoes

Make it elegant and serve with creme fraiche and pea shoots.

One of the great things about shopping for produce at the greenmarket versus the supermarket this time of year is the variety and abundance. Right about now, the purple, yellow, and red carrots are being pulled up for market and the varieties of summer squash are vast, ranging in color from pale, pale yellow to deep, dark green. Things you may have never even seen before are available and waiting to be tried. Soon there will be big bunches of dill flowers and hundreds of peppers in every shape, size, and color.

Commune cuisine at its finest!

This past weekend I was reminded of one of my Southern-inspired summer favorites--fried green tomatoes. The hard green tomatoes piled in a crate looking meek and lonely next to the fancy and exotic heirlooms wooed me with their simplicity and humble presentation. I filled a bag right away. Fried green tomatoes are a symbol of summer sun and relaxation to me. Served with some kale, and smoky vegetarian pinquitos beans and rice, these sour and savory morsels don't last long at my table.

Fried Green Tomatoes

10-12 firm, green underripe tomatoes (ripe, green heirlooms are watery and don't come out the same)
1 1/2 c yellow cornmeal
1 c whole wheat or oat flour (or corn flour for gluten-free)

One of those little buggers began to ripen overnight!

1 T Cajun seasoning (opt.but good!)
1 t garlic powder
1 t sweet paprika
1/2 t sea salt
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper

1 egg (opt.)
1 1/2-2  cups almond milk, soy milk, milk, or water

expeller-pressed canola/sunflower/safflower oil for frying (a cup or so)

I fried it anyway.

Wash and core tomatoes and slice into rounds about 1/3" thick. Set aside. In a shallow bowl or on a plate, combine cornmeal, flour, Cajun seasoning, garlic powder, paprika, salt, and pepper.

If using egg, whisk together egg with liquid in a medium bowl. Start with 1 1/2 and as you dredge and fry, add more liquid if you are running low. Without egg, just put the full 2 cups liquid in a bowl.

Heat a 1/2 inch of oil in a frying pan and set up a plate with paper towels for draining. When a pinch of flour sizzles, oil is ready. Dip tomato slices in liquid and dredge in the cornmeal mixture, creating a nice, thick layer. Place in the oil to fry. Continue until pan is full, but not overcrowded.

Fry for about 4 minutes, flip, then fry about 3 minutes more. Transfer to paper towels to drain and season with salt while hot. Fry remaining slices in batches. Dredging the upcoming batch while a batch is frying will save time.

Tranfer drained tomatoes to a warm oven, uncovered to keep hot.

Serve with hot sauce, ketchup, creme fraiche and pea shoots (my favorite), or mustard. They are great as sandwiches the next day, too.

Spinach, Tomato, and Orzo Soup

Brrrr....It has gotten chilly out there.  This is the time of year when we start craving foods well-suited to cold weather and often that means heavy and less healthy foods.  Here is an alternative to all the hefty, starchy stuff that sounds good right now. It's a light, yet hearty and filling soup that is much tastier and more exciting than classic vegetable soup.  It's really easy, too!  Give it a try this weekend!  I LOVE the bright flavors of lemon and dill simmered in soup form.

Dilled Spinach, Tomato, and Orzo Soup

If you aren't into adding pasta for health reasons, feel free to substitute the orzo for a can of navy beans, drained and rinsed.  Similar essence, equally good!

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
8 plum tomatoes, diced
2 t sea salt
1 t freshly ground black pepper
1 t dried oregano
¼ t ground nutmeg
1 medium potato, peeled and diced

8-10 cups water or broth
3 T tomato paste
1 clamshell baby spinach
1 cup uncooked orzo pasta (preferably whole wheat)
4 scallions, chopped
1 cup chopped dill

2/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
Sea salt to taste


In a large soup pot, heat oil over medium heat.  Add onion and cook 3 minutes, until translucent.  Add garlic, tomatoes, salt, pepper, oregano, nutmeg, and potato.

Stir together and cook, uncovered for 7-10 minutes, stirring frequently, so it doesn’t stick too much or get brown. 

Add water or broth and tomato paste.  Bring to a boil, then lower heat to medium-low.  Simmer, uncovered, for 30-40 minutes. 

Add spinach, orzo, scallions, and dill and stir.  Cover and turn heat to very low.  Cook for 10 minutes or until orzo is soft and spinach is wilted. 

Taste for salt and pepper and season accordingly.  Finish soup by stirring in fresh lemon juice.

Garnish with some Greek yogurt and chopped dill, if you like.

Vegetable Napoleons!

These vegetable napoleons are so easy and versatile. You can make them to accompany any type of meal and use any combination of vegetables, cheese, polenta, or whatever you want to stack!

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees.

Slice veggies of your choice about 1/3-1/2 inch thick. Toss with olive oil, sea salt, garlic, and rosemary in a mixing bowl.

Here are some ideas for stacking veggies:

eggplant
red, green, or yellow peppers
tomatoes
onions
zucchini
yellow squash
fennel
artichokes
portabella mushrooms
butternut or acorn squash

Evenly distribute the veggies on a baking sheet. Roast for 20 minutes or so. Some veggies may take a little longer to get tender and slightly browned.

When finished, stack them up, layered with slices of fresh mozzarella, polenta rounds, squares of garlic bread, or anything you can think of! Bake 15-20 minutes, covered, or until hot. Serve with a little marinara and garnish with rosemary.

Yes, There Really are Vegetarians in Texas!

Here is a seasonal, vegetarian dinner party menu that is absolutely delicious, as requested by Phil, a loyal follower. It's full of flavor and elegant enough to serve on the good dishes. This menu works as a "family-style" menu where everything is served in the middle of the table, but it is also a good menu for a plated dinner. The dishes are Mediterranean in structure, with a nod to Tex-Mex for Phil who lives in Dallas-Fort Worth and wants to entertain vegetarian friends.

The risotto is contained in the pepper which keeps things from getting too messy and everything is colorful enough that you don't have to do much garnishing. I have written this to feed a dinner party of 4-6 people with leftovers. Here is a photo I took of a gorgeous poblano at Blue Hill Farm.

Here are some photos to accompany the menu.

1st course
Roasted Tomatoes and Baby Spinach Salad
with Feta Cheese and Moroccan Olives




main course
Carrot and Basil Risotto-stuffed
Poblano Peppers
and
Roasted Spiced Butternut Squash




Dessert
Chocolate Ganache Cake with Whipped Cream



The Day Before

Bake cake

Roast poblano peppers

Roast tomatoes

Make risotto

Chop squash

The Day Of

Prep onions and olives for salad

Crumble feta

Roast butternut squash

Whip cream

Bring cake to room temperature

To Serve

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Heat stuffed peppers for an hour.

Warm squash about 25 minutes.

Warm tomatoes about 15 minutes.
Put together salad.

Chop basil just before serving peppers.

Turn oven off after entree is removed.

Let cool for a few minutes and put cake into oven as oven cools--by the time you are finished eating it will be slightly warmed.

Bon Appetit!

Roasted Tomatoes and Baby Spinach Salad with Feta Cheese and Moroccan Olives

about 2 lb plum tomatoes (approx. 15 tomatoes--sounds like a lot but they shrink)
4 T extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 t sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 t minced garlic
2 T white balsamic vinegar (Trader Joe's has it or use the dark kind if you can't find it)

1-5 0z. "clamshell" of baby spinach
1 c diced onion
1 lemon
a 7-8 oz chunk of good feta cheese (try to find a good sheep, goat, or blend of the two)
about 1 cup pitted and halved Moroccan olives (these are very salty, shiny, wrinkled, black olives--you can substitute kalamatas or use a mix of olives, if you prefer or can't find them)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Have a large mixing bowl ready for tomatoes. Line 2 baking sheets with foil or parchment paper.

Wash tomatoes and slice them into rounds about 1/2 inch thick, and transfer to mixing bowl. Add olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic, and vinegar. Toss together gently and distribute evenly onto baking sheets.

Roast for 30-35 minutes, tossing once about halfway through roasting. When they are fragrant, a little bit browned, and just beginning to break down, they are done.

If you are making this a day ahead, transfer to a container and store in the fridge, then warm slightly before serving. Set aside at room temperature if you are making just a few hours before.

To serve: Arrange baby spinach on individual serving plates or in a large salad bowl. Sprinkle diced onion over the spinach. Slice lemon into a few wedges and squeeze a little lemon juice over greens. Sprinkle olives on, then add still slightly warm roasted tomatoes on top of greens. Crumble feta and grind some black pepper on top.

Carrot and Basil Risotto-stuffed Poblano Peppers

6-8 poblano peppers ( try to find large ones, that aren't too folded in the center)

2 cans vegetable broth
2 Tbsp butter
1 medium red onion, finely chopped
6 medium carrots, grated
sea salt and black pepper
1 1/4 c arborio rice (or long-grain white rice if you can't find it)
1/2 c dry white wine
1/4 c grated parmigiano reggiano
4 cups fresh basil leaves, washed

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wash peppers and rub them with a bit of olive oil. Line the up on a baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes or so, uncovered. Watch them closely--you want them to be crisp enough to hold their shape, but not raw. Set aside to cool when they are done.

FOR THE RISOTTO:
In a saucepan, bring broth and 2 cups water to barely a simmer over medium.

In a large saucepan, melt 1 Tablespoon butter over medium. Add onion and carrots; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5-7 minutes. Stir in rice. Add wine; cook, stirring, until absorbed, 1-2 minutes.

Add 2 cups hot broth, stirring constantly. You are essentially knocking the grains together in the broth to create the creamy sauce; keep simmering over medium-low, stirring, until mostly absorbed, 10-12 minutes. Continue process, adding a cup of broth at a time, stirring frequently, waiting until liquid is almost absorbed before adding more. Cook until rice is creamy and just tender, about 20 minutes.

Remove risotto from heat. Finely chop about half of the basil. Stir in parmigiano reggiano and basil. Let cool a bit.

Return to the cooled peppers. With a paring knife, carefully cut a 2"x 4.5-5" piece out along the length of each pepper, preferably on top. You want to be able to dig out the seeds and stuff it without tearing it. Try to rescue the piece you are cutting out and save it for garnish.

With a spoon, try to carefully scoop out the seeds of each. It's okay if you leave some behind. Carefully fill each pepper with slightly cooled risotto.

Top with the saved piece you cut out. If they didn't all make it, cut the remains into long strips and arrange them across the tops of the peppers instead.

If you are making this a day ahead, cover and chill until you are ready to heat them up.

To serve: Bake at 350 degrees, covered, for 30-35 minutes. Chop the remaining basil and sprinkle on top just before serving.

Roasted Spiced Butternut Squash

3 lb butternut squash
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Peel butternut squash and scoop out the seeds and seed goo with a spoon. Cut into approximately 1"-1.5" chunks. Toss with remaining ingredients.

Roast for 45 minutes. Let cool and store in the fridge until ready to heat.

Chocolate Ganache Cake with Whipped Cream
from "Big City Cooking", by Matthew Kenney and Joan Schwartz

2 sticks/1/2 lb butter, cut into pieces, plus more for the pan
8 oz good-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
4 eggs, separated
2/3 cup sugar
1/4 cup toasted almond flour, almond meal, or toasted ground almonds
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp salt
powdered sugar for dusting

1 1/2 cups heavy cream, chilled
2 Tbsp powdered sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Butter an 8 or 9-inch cake pan, and line the bottom with a round of parchment paper, buttering the parchment as well. If you don't have parchment, butter and flour the pan, knocking out the excess flour.

In a double boiler or a metal bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water, melt the chocolate and the butter, stirring until smooth. Set aside to cool slightly.

Using an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks with about half the sugar on medium-high speed until pale and thick, about 3 minutes. Fold the chocolate into the egg mixture and set aside.

Wash and dry the beaters. In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks begin to form. With the mixer running, gradually add the remaining sugar and continue beating until medium-firm peaks form, about 5 minutes. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate-yolk mixture in 3 additions.

Put the almond flour, cinnamon, and salt in a fine strainer held over the batter, and sift it into the batter, folding it in 3 additions.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake on the middle rack of the oven until a toothpick or knife inserted into the center comes out with only a few crumbs attached, 45-50 minutes.

When the cake has cooled completely, run a small knife around the pan sides to loosen it. Invert the cake onto a plate or cooling rack; then invert it again onto a serving plate. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired.

TO MAKE THE WHIPPED CREAM:

In an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat the chilled cream until slightly thickened. Add the sugar and vanilla extract and beat until firm peaks begin to form; do not over beat.

TO SERVE:

Top each slice of cake with a dollop of whipped cream. The cake can be made 1 day ahead and stored at room temperature, covered with a dome or with parchment paper and then plastic wrap. It can be refrigerated for up to 2 days and then brought back to room temperature or gently reheated before serving. It is also good served chilled, but the texture will be firmer.

So Long, Summer. See Ya Next Year!

Today is the first day back to school in the five boroughs. It's not cold yet, but like every year, the week after Labor Day has that little bit of crispness to the air that just wasn't there the previous week. I was reminded this morning that my feet get cold when I just get out of bed (three seasons of the year, that is). Summer is over, folks. It's always a bittersweet realization. I LOVE summer for summer, plain and simple. It's officially my favorite season. . .but it's gone till 2010. Unofficially, I love fall, too, though, for it's food, sweaters, hot drinks outside, pumpkin carving, the smell in the air, and the feeling of simply getting back to the tasks at hand after a three-month abandonment.

The farmer's market at the height of summer seems like it would be the best, but let us not forget the fall market with the shiny, waxy-skinned winter squashes in every shade of yellow, orange, red, and green, bunches of brown and gold maize wrapped together, potted mums, and bundles of wheat.

The markets in NYC aren't quite there yet, but the rainbow of veggies from the height of summer is winding down. Here is a late summer recipe that is great for chilly evenings and is best when the fresh veggies in the markets are still looking good.

It is an adaptation of one that my friend, Sarah, composed on a coffee table circa 1996 with a can opener, a spoon, and a pot. It has been evolving over the years and changed a little, but it's the same in spirit. The creamy pesto is the bee's knee's! Just wait till you try it!

MINESTRONE with creamy pesto

1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil
2 T butter, (optional but good)
1 1/2 c onion, diced small
1 cup sliced crimini mushrooms
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and chopped into roughly 1"x.25" strips
1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped into roughly 1"x.25"strips
1 c celery slices
1 c thin carrot slices
1 c potatoes, diced into roughly 1/2" cubes
1 c zucchini, cut into half-moons
2 T minced garlic
2 T dried oregano
1 T dried basil
1 T sea salt
lots of freshly ground black pepper
2 c chopped Roma tomatoes
6-8 cups vegetable broth or water (or some of each)
about 2 oz/1/2 can tomato paste (freeze the other half)
1 15 oz can diced tomatoes (plain or with Italian herbs, whichever you prefer)
1 15 oz can kidney beans
2 cups dried pasta (fusilli and wagon wheels are my favorites)
1 1/2 c broccoli, cut into small-ish florets
1 1/2 c cauliflower, cut into small-ish florets
2 c green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-1 1/2" pieces
3 T minced fresh oregano
fresh basil for garnish

1 recipe Creamy Pesto (below)

Heat olive oil in a soup pot.

Cook onion, mushrooms, peppers, celery, carrots, pototoes, zucchini, and garlic, about 12-15 minutes, or until veggies begin to soften and brown just a tiny bit. Season with dried oregano, dried basil, sea salt, and black pepper. Add chopped tomatoes and cook about 5 more minutes.

Add broth and simmer until warm. Ladle a cup or so of hot broth into a bowl. Add tomato paste and mix together until paste is dissolved. Add back to soup along with the can of tomatoes (with juice). Simmer about 15 minutes until vegetables are nice and tender.

Open and drain a can of kidney beans. Rinse with water in a colander and add to the soup.

If you are making this ahead of time, to be served later. Let cool and chill at this point and finish the soup when you reheat. If you are preparing it to eat right away, continue.

With soup simmering, add pasta, broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, and fresh oregano.

Cook until veggies are tender-crisp and pasta is al dente.

Ladle into serving bowls.
Top each bowl with creamy pesto and a handful of basil.


CREAMY PESTO

1/2 cup pine nuts
about 3 cups fresh basil leaves, washed
3 t chopped garlic
about 1/3 c grated parmigiano reggiano or pecorino romano cheese
3 T extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt
black pepper
2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/3 cup cream cheese

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Toast pinenuts, uncovered for 7-9 minutes, until just toasted--watch closely!

In a food processor, blend basil, garlic, grated cheese, pine nuts, oil, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Blend, scrape down sides, and blend again until uniform. Add cream cheese. Continue blending until uniform. Taste for salt, pepper, and lemon.